


TS 1630 
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THE 



FAMILY DIRECTO 



DESIGNED 

AS A HELP TO THOSE, WHO ARE SUPPLYING THEMSELVES, IX 

WHOLE OR IN PART, WITH WOOLLEN GOODS OF THEIR 

OWN MANUFACTURE. 

CONTAINING 

rLAI.'f DIKECTIONS, FOR WASHING WOOL, COLOURIXO WOOL, WOOLLSN TARN 
AND FLANNUL, AND MIXING OF COLOURS. 

ALSO, 

DIRECTIONS FOR CAKDING, SPINNING, WEAVING, FULLING, 
AND FINISHING, 



BY MATTHEW ATKINSO]^\ 



i CARROLLTO 

PRINTED BV JOHN III I , T. 



1844. 










\ 



Entered according to act of Congress in the year 1844, by Matthew 
Atkinson, in the clerk's office of ihe District Court of the Diatrict of Ohio. 






7 



PREFACE. 

:o: 

The Family Director has been got up and conducted 

3' throughout, with direct reference to the interest of that 

portion of the public, who are supplying themselves in 

whole, or in part, with Woollen Goods of their own 

manufacture. 

The author has been induced to believe that, he could be 
useful, to this class of his fellow citizens, from several 
considerations. Upwards of thirty years experience, in 
the business of Fulling, and Dying, has acquainted him, 
to a considerable extent, v;ith the different processes by 
which wool is most advantageously converted, into the 
several articles in common use. The great advantage of 
making the colours in the wool, instead of being dyed in 
the web, is every day becoming more evident to the pub- 
lic; v/hilst the almost entire iaiposability of obtaining cor- 
rect information, in this important branch of home indus- 
try, confines tliose who are most interested to a few colours 
only, and even those are frequently not well fixed, for 
want of a more general acquaintance with the art of dyeing. 

The author is acquainted with no book designed to fill 
the place, intended for the Family Director. 

All the authors on colours, of which he has any knowl- 
edge, have written almost exclusively for the benefit of 
practitioners; and many of them did not intend to be un- 
derstood, even by dyers, unless they were scientifically 
acquainted with their business. 

The author has indulged the opinion for many years, 
that, a work of this kind could be adapted to the use of 
Farmers, Mechanics and others, to sucii an extent, as to 
enable them to succeed in dying permanently on wool, and 
yarn, all the difierent colours in general use, in the manu- 



rv. 



facture of Cloths, Satinetts, Linseys, Flannels, Covcrletts, 
and Carpeting. 

With this in view, he has given the process, with all the 
directions necessary, for making each colour specified in 
the work, in that plain manner, which he feels confident 
will he understood hy all. 

In order to render the work as useful as possible, the 
several preparations of Tin, as used by dyers, are minutely 
described, together with the proj)er directions for using 
these compositions in dying, so that, those who wish to 
make the brightest and most beautiful shades of red, crim- 
son, orange, green, and yellow, may be at no loss for the 
information that is necessary. 

In view of the bad consequences, resulting to our home 
manufacturing, from bad management in washing wool, 
carding, spinning^ and weaving, and from bad fulling and 
finishing, the author has paid particular attention, in the 
work, to each of these branches, and given those directions, 
which, if attended to, wi!! result to the entire satisfaction 
of those concerned. 

To those engaged in the business of Fulling, Dying, and 
Finishing, it may be remarked that, although the Family 
Director is not designed for their exclusive benefit, they 
may realize some advantage by consulting its pages. 
CarroUton, January 1, 1844. 



THE 

FAMILY DIRECTOR. 



The first thing needed in colouring, is a suitable vessel in which (o 
prepare the dye and make the colour. The size ought to be sucli as to 
afTord at least lliree gallons of dye, for each pound of clolh, flannel or 
yarn; and for wool not less than five. With less room than th\s it is 
hardly ])ossibie to make colours evenly. 

For all colours in which copperas is used, an iion kettle will answer the 
purpose. Those colours, in which copperas is not used, must be dyed in 
copper kettles. 

To make colours evenly on cloth, flannels or yarn, a reel is indispensa- 
ble; which can hardly be put up in a common fire-place. For this reason, 
it would he preferable to set the kettle out of doors, in any way iliat it 
will stand firndy, and admit, below, suilicient fire to make it boil in reasona- 
ble lime. 

A reel can then be put up in a temporary way, by setting a for kfirmly on 
each side of the kettle, so that the reel will cross at the centre, and about 
a foot above the lop of the kettle. 

For colouring wool, a board should be placed firmly in such a position, as 
to run the dye back into the kettle, as it drains from the wool when taken 
vp lo cool. 

For colouring in small lots, the reel maybe quite light; .«ay inch and 
n half square scantling for the axle, through which bore two half-inch 
lioles, at such distance apart, as just to be inside your kettle when laid 
across the top, turn over ihe scantling and bore two other h-nlesjupt inside 
ti)e first, and at right angles with them, througii which drive four pins 
si.\ inches in length, and on llie points attach four laths, e.xlending a few 
inches in length beyond the pins at each end. Attach a crank lo the end 
of the axle about eight inches in length, and dress ihe journals rosmd, that 
the reel may run smoothly; and you h»ve a reel for about two hours work, 
that will last many years if laid aside with care v/hcn out of use. 

Wiien ail is ready and your cloth or yarn smoothly folded on a board, 
such as described for colouring wool: pass one end of the web over the 
reel, and turn with one hand, and with a siiort slick in the other hand. 
Fink the web in the dye as you reel it over; let this be done quickly, wheu 
:ill is in, lake up tiie end of the web, pass it over the reel, and turn back 
slowly; opening the cluth on the reel to give it air; continue this process 
of reeling back and forward, and opening, while the goods are in the dye.; 
this constant reeling and airing is done io prevent spotting; when the 
goods have been in the dye a pr^^per lengtli of time, slip tuie end of the 
web between the axle, and a rib, of the reel: and turn in a direction oppo- 
site to the board, on whicli you p;is tlie cloth, and when the cloth or yani 
is reeled out, let it drain. 'J'hcfi -.vith one hand turn the reel back, and 
will) the slick in the other hand, ih.ruvv oS" the clolh in a pile on Shs board; 
then fold the cloth to air and cool. 



6 

When yarn is coloured, the skeins are shook out loose. You commence 
with two of the skeins by passing a string through them, and tying it go 
loosely thai, when stretched they will be about tiiree inches apart; to this, 
attach the next skein in the same way, and so proceed unii! all are thus 
united. You can then, by the help of the reel, handle the yarn in the same 
way that cloth is managed, wilhoiit danger of spotting or tangling. 

All barks, woods &C., used in the preparation of dyes, iii which wool 
or yarn is coloured, should be caretuily laken out of the kettle before the 
goods are put in. Ilcnce to save (rouble, those articles are put in bags; 
and boiled in the dye, old coflee sacks are about as good as any: when 
Madder or Camwood is used they may in all cases be put loose in (he dye, 
except in colouring wool, for this use the dye must be cleared of all sub- 
stances that does not dissolve in boiling water, before the wool is dipped. 
Hence a difficulty arises in the use of both these valuable articles; if put 
loose in the dye they adhere to the wool, and are injurious in carding and 
spinning, and if confined in cloths or sacks, they pack so closely together 
that their colouring matter is not given out in the dye. As browns, howe- 
rer, are almost the only colours, in which madder and camwood are used fur 
dying on wool; this difficulty maybe removed by boiling them loose in the 
dye, and then letting it stand a few hours, the bladder or Camwood, as 
the case may be, will settle to the bottom, the dye can be poured off, the 
grounds put in a cloth of open texture, and with a few pails full of warm 
water applied to them, the whole of the colour they contain, strained into 
ihe dye. There is a little trouble about this, but not so much as attends 
bad rolls, iuuj bad yarn. 

In order to make good colours, the goods intended to he dyed, should 
be perfectly clean; when this is not attended to, there is always a wasie of 
dyestutr, and bad colours. 

There are several advantages in making colours in the spring, of which 
those who do but little in this way, should avail themselves; the weather 
is commonly pleajant, and favorable for dying, water is plenty for washing 
or rinsing, in tuany places when it cannot be had in the fall season; and 
in many placer, water is purer and better for dying bright colours in tho 
spring, than any other lime in the year; and if barks be used they are ea- 
sier procured, and many of them make better colours than in the fall or 
winter. 

No. 1. For SSracii 'wltla lSSacEi-®ak Hark. 

Fiva pounds of Wool: Put three pecks Black-Oak bark cut fine, in any 
kind of a bag that i« of open texture, and boil it one and a half hours; 
then take it out, and dissolve half a pound copperas, and three ounces blue 
vitriol, in hot water and add to the dye, stir well and dip the wool, mix it 
well that the colour may be evenly; boil slowly one hour, then take out 
and cool the wool; dip it again and stir and mix the wool well and let it 
Stand in the dye over night; next morning take out ihe wool, and emptj 



the dye; fill wilh clean water and add two pounds good Logwood ; which 
niiisl be boiled in a sack for at least two hours, dissolve half a pound cop- 
peras and two ounces blue viiriol, take up the Logwood, and add tho 
copperas and vitriol with half a gallon chamherlye, mix well, then dip 
the wool, and mix well to make the colour evenly ; boil slowly for one hour 
aud let siand over night, next day, take out the wool, and rinso it well in 
clean water. This makes a full and durable black, the black-oak bark 
hinds the colour and leaves it easy to wash — for yarn one fourth less dye- 
stuffs will be sufficient. 

No. S. For BlacL, witia Pliia-Oali Hark. 

Five pounds of Wool: fill yourdye-Iiettle within a few inches of the top, 
with clean water, and add half a busiiel pin-oak bark, cut hne, and tied up 
inaclotii of open texture; boil well iv.o hours, take out the bark and 
dissolve three quarters of a pound of Coppera?, and add to t!ie dye; stir 
well anddip the wool, boil slowly one hour, mix the wool carefully witli tha 
dye in order to make the colour evenly, then take out and air and cool the 
wool; fill up the keltic anain, and dip the wool, boil slowly half an hour, 
end let it remain over night in the dye, without any more boiling; next day 
take out the wool, empty the kettle and fill as before wilh clean water, add 
two pounds good Logwood in chips, and one peck white-oak bark; boil 
well one and half hours, rinso the wool in clean water and take out ihs 
bark and Logwood; dissolve half a pound copperas, and three ounces blue 
vitriol, and add to the dye, mix well and dip the wool, boil slowly ono 
hour, then take uj) the woo!, air and cool it; fill up the kettle, and dip 
again ; mix the wool well in the dye, boil slowly one hour, and let the wooi 
remain in the dye over night, next day take it out and rinse well, and dry 
as soon as convenient. 

No. S. Ulack waOa lyaliatst Bark. 

Five pounds of Wool; dye the wool a good walnut brown, then boil two 
pounds Logwood, and one peck white-oak bark two hours, lake theni out of 
the dye, and add three-quarters of a pound copperas, and one fourtii pound 
blue vitriol; have them dissolved ai;d well mixed in the dye, then dip tho 
wool, and loil slowly one iiotir, stirring the wool frequently in the dye.theis 
take ii tip, air aud cool ii, and fill up the kettle; dip the wool again, 
and boil slowly half an hour; let the wool remain in the dye over night 
withntji any more boiling, next day take out and rinse it clean and dry it. 

Either of the three foregoing receipts, will dye a full and beautiful black, 
and perjnanenlas black can be made,without having recourse to the blue-dye. 

I^^o. 4. BShc Black. 

Five pounds of Wool; boil for two hours, one peck white-oak bark, an^ 
one and a half pounds black-oak bark, ground as for tanning, then take oui 



8 

the bark, and dissolve three-foiutlis of a pound copperas and two ounces 
blue vitriol, and ndd to llio dye, stir well and dip the wool, and boil flowlr 
one liour; then take up llie wool, air, and cool it, till uj) the kettle and 
dip the wool again, mix it well, boiling slowly half an hour; and let it 
lemain in the dye over night; next morning take up the wool, empty, 
clean the kittle, and fill with clean water; to vvhich add two and half poundst 
Loavvood, boil well one and a half hours, take out the Logwood, and dip 
the wool and mix well with the dye. and boil slowly one hour; lake up the 
wool and cool it, fill up the kettle, and dissolve one-fourili of a pound of 
coD'ieras, and one ounce blue vitriol, and add to the dye, with half a gallon 
chamberlye; dip the wool and boil slowly half an hour, andlel it reraaiu 
over night in the dye; then take out, wash and dry it. 

A better black is made and less injury did to the goods, by adopting 
the plan laid down in the preceding receipts; viz: dying the color in part, 
and commencing a new dye tofinishin, than can be obtained by the com- 
mon practice of commencing and finishing the color in the same dye. The 
color is obtained in the first case, in a dye of only half the strength that is 
required in the second. A general opinion that the copperas used in the 
black dye, has a tendency to hrittle the goods, would he an argument in 
favorof the plan recommended above; the color is obtained in a weaker 
dye. With this view of the suhiect, in coloring yarn or flannel, it would he 
well to rinse the goods in clean water, before ihey are dipped in the sec- 
ond dye. 

If the care alluded to above, to guard against injuring the goods in this 
dye, should be unnecessary for some purposes, for which black may be wan- 
ted. Omit changing or throwing out the first dye, and with this simple 
change, proceed to make the colour as directed in tiie receipts. There are 
many articles, not mentioned in the preceding receipts, that answer a good 
jiurpose in the black dye, but v/hen the cost is counted, good reasons will 
.nppearin favour of the present ])lan. Sumac is an excellent dye drug 
in colouring black, but if not cut in season, of the proper growth and cured 
with care, it is worthless; Nutgalls are also amongst the best ingredients in 
the black-dye, but are too costly fur genera! use. In the receipts, wliite-oak 
bark is designed to supply thejr place, and v/ill be found to answer the pur- 
pose very well. 

Ifo. 5. ©ark SeimIF Brown, with Walnut Bark. 

Five pounds Wool; dye the wool a good walnut brown but not dark; then 
boil for one hour; in clean water, one and a lialf pounds black-oak bark 
j>round as for tanning, and one pound good Camwood, take out the Cam- 
wood and Bark, dip the wool and mix it well in the dye, and boil slowly one 
liour, take up the wool, air and cool it ; dissolve two ounces blue vitriol 
and half a pound copperas, and add to the dye; mix well and dip the wool, 
taking care to mix it well in the dye that the colour may be evenly, boil 



slowly half an hour, and let the wool remaio over night in the dye, next 
day take it out, wash and dry it. 

This is an excellent colour, quite on the dark order, improves in fulling, 
and when dyed in the wool is permanent as Indigo blue. Hence there are 
several consideraiions in favour of its general use on cloth, more espe- 
cially, as it is quite fashionable forover-coals, and other garments, made of 
broadcloths of excellent quality. 

j\o. 6. Bai'k 8iiiifI*5Sro\vn, with Blnck-Oak Bark. 

Five pounds of Wool; boil for one hour, in clean water four pounds of 
Black-Oak bark ground as foi* tanning, and one and a half pounds Camwood ; 
take up the Camwood and bark; dissolve one ounce blue-vitriol and 
add to the dye, then dip the wool and boil slowly one hour, moving the 
wool frequently in the dye; then take up the wool air and coo! it; dis- 
solve four ounces coperas and add to the dye, dip the wool again and boil 
moderately half an hour, let the wool remain in the dye over night, thea 
rinse and dry it. 

No, 7. l>ark Snuff Brown, with Fustic. 

Five pounds of wool; boil two pounds of Fustic and one and a half 
poundsof Camwood, dissolve an ounce of blue Vitriol, and add to the 
(iye; dip the wool and boil slowly for one hour, mixing the wool carefully 
so that the color may be even, then take jp, air and cool the wool; add 
half a bushel white walnut bark, cut fine, to the dye, and dissolve six oun- 
ces of copperas and two ounces of alum, and add to the dye; mix well 
and dip the wool, boil slowly for half an hour, and lei the wool remain over 
night in the dye. 

This is a fine color and not subject to fade; the walnut bark may be 
omitted, but the color will not be so fast, and the wool will not feel as 
soft. 

The Butternut stands unrivalled, amongst our coloring materials, for im- 
parling a fast color, and a soft, tough feel, to those articles on which it is 
used in dying. 

No. 8. Bright Snuff Brown, with Black-Oak Bark. 

Five pounds of Wool; boil for one hour, six pounds of black oak bark, 
ground as for tanning, with one pound of camwood; lake up the camwood 
and bark, and dissolve one ounce of alum, aiu! one ounce and a half of blue 
Vitriol, and add to the dye; mix the dyo we!', and dip the wool, boil slow- 
ly for one hour, mixing the wool in the dye ilm ihecolormay be evenly; 
tiien take up the wool air and cool it; iiil up the kettle and dissolve 
four ounces oi coppeaas with half an ounce of blue Vitriol, and add to the 



10 



dye; mix well, and dip the wool; boil slowly half and hour, and let it re- 
main over niglit ill the dye; next day take up the wool and rinso and 
dry it. 

No. 9. Bright SnufT Brown, with Fustic. 



'fa* 



Five pounds of wool; boil for one hour and a half, two and a half 
pounds of Fustic with one pound of Madder take out the Madder and 
Fustic, and dissolve four ounces of alum and add to the dye; siir well, and 
dip the wool; boil slowly one hour, mixing the wool carefully with the dye, 
then lake up the wool, air, and cool it. Dissolve three ounces bhi« 
Vitriol and six ounces of copperas, and add to the dye; mix the dye well 
and dip the wool, boil slowly half an hour, and let the wool remain in th« 
dye until the next day, llieu rinse and dry it. Receipts Nos. 8 & 9, ar« 
designed for bright snr.ff colors, in which the yellow has the ascendency; 
and are belter suited for dying yarn or clot!), than for dying wool. This 
class of colors admit of a great variety of shade, from the dark London 
smoke, approaching nearly to black, down to the bright cinnamon, or color 
of a dried leaf. For instance, in the last receipt, omit the alum in the first 
dip, and omit two ounces blue Vitriol, and add two ounces to liie copperas: 
in the last dip, and instead of a bright snuffcolor, you will have a very in- 
different olive brown whilst all the change tha't is needed in the same re- 
ceipt to make a dark and permanent snuff brown, with the shade on the reti 
order, is to omit the pound of Madder and supply its place with a pound 
and a, half of Camwood. 

No. 10. Dark London Smoke, with Black-Oak Bark. 

Five pounds of Wool; boil for one hour, eight pounds Black-Oak bark, 
ground as for tanning and vwo pounds Camwood then take up the Camwood 
and bark and dissolve three ounces of Alum and add to the dye, dip the 
the wool and boil slowly one hour; then take up liie wool, cool and air 
it; fill up the kettle, and add to the dye half a bushel while walnut bark^ 
cut fine, and one pound Logwood, boil it an hour and a half, then lake 
ihem out and dissolve three-fourths of a pound of copperas, and three oun- 
ces blue vitriol, add to the dye wilh half a gallon chamberlye, mix the dye 
well and dip the wool, mixing it well in the dye, that the colour may be 
even, and boil slowly half an hour, let the wool remain in the dye until 
the next day, then rinse and dry it. 

This is a full deep colour approaching nearly to black, but retaining a 
fine lustre of red and yellow, and permanent as indigo blue. 

No. 11; Olive Brown, with Black-Oak, & White-Wal- 
nut bark; Five pounds of Wool. 

Boil for two hours,half a bushel of White-Walnut bark, cut fine, then take 
it out and add to the dye three pounds ground black-oak bark, boil oust 



11 

hour, talce up tnc bark and dip tlie wool, boil slowly one Iiour, mixing tli^ 
wool thai the colour may bo evenly, take up the wool, air and cool il, disr 
solve four ouiicea copperas and add to the dye, with hall'a gallon chambert 
3ye, then dip the, wool and boil slowly hulf an hour, mix the wool well witli 
tlie dye au.i leave it in the dye over night, next day take it up, rinsa 
and dry it. 

No. 12. This colour, though not very deep, has several considerationa 
in its favoiir, that of being very chea[) and durable. On wool, afterwards 
mannnicturcd into cloth, or linsey, il slands fulling very well and comes 
out a dark drab, inclining to brown. 

No. 13. The seven receipts, last given, are supposed to afibrd sufficient 
variety in this class of colours for all practical purposes, and aisoagcner- 
ii\ knowledge of the principles that govern dyes of this kind. Any variety 
•of shade may be obtained, by a small change in the process described in the 
receipts; for example, receipt, No. G, will make a briglit sninT brown 
with a fine lustre of yellow and red, by omitting Iralf a pound Camwood and 
using three ounces Alum, in place of the Vitriol, in the lirsl dip, and using 
lAVO ounces bine Vitriol, and three ounces copperas with half a gallon cham- 
berlve, in the last dip. The red and yellow, in these colours, depend oq 
Uie Alum for their brightness; the blue Vitriol possesses, to some extent, 
the properties of both Alum and Copperas, Vv'hich afTords sufficient reason 
for iis use in colours of this kind. Amongst ail the fancy colours in use, 
there arc none that possess so many good qualities, and so few bad ones, as 
those composed of red, yellow, and brown. They are made with little ex- 
ponce, rather improve in fulling and wasliing, and leave the wool soft and 
jougl), and when manufactuied into cloth, is susceptible of the very best fin- 
ish, and is not subjoct to fade in wearing. 

No. 14. Walnut Brown. 

This colour IS commonly made in a cold dye, and best done in'lhe sum- 
mer, when the sun shines warmly ; take a wooden vessel, water tight, and 
large onougij to hold the bark and wool, put a layer of bavk in the bottom 
and a layer of wo;.!, on the bark, and so proceed with bark and wool layer 
alternately, until iho lot you wish to dye is packed; then add warm water or, 
what is belter, boil a sufficient quaasily of white-walnut bark to make a 
very strong dye, add this to the wool and bark, until the vessel is full; to 
have a good even colour the wool must be spread out a few hours every day 
in the sun, then reiurned again, as at first, to the dye. 

This is a good colour and very fast, but sometimes, either for want of 
fair weather, (for the sun has a great effect on this colour to deepen and 
brighten it,)or owing to too week a dye or both, the process is lengthened out 
until the wool bcconses harsh and brittle, and very much injured. This might 
be avoided, and the colour obtained with less labour and in much less lime. 

No. 15. In the fall of the year, when the walnut falls lake, a barrel 
or any vessel of suitable size, watertight, and fill it with walnut hulls, or 



12 

if this be too much trouble, throw them in nuts and all ; add a little water, 
juBt enough to keep them moist, and as they rot and sink down, add more 
walnuts, until you have laid up as much as will be needed, for all your wal- 
nut dyes next summer. Their rotting and having a bad smell, or being wor- 
jny, dees them no injury as a colouring drug. 

No. IG. Next summer, if there be cloth, flannel, or yarn to dye Walnut 
Brown, fill your kettle and add the amount of walnut hulls you suppose 
necessary, and bring the dye to boiling heat, then dip and run the goods 
about forty minutes, lake them up and cool them, add more hulls to the dye, 
if necessary, and continue the process of dipping and running the goods, 
airing and cooling, and adding the hulls to the dye, until the colour suits 
your fancy — in liiis way, a dark walnut brown can be made in half a day. 
But this plan will not suit for wool, the walnut hulls would stick in, and be 
a great injury. 

No, 17. Shift as much of the Walnut Hulls, as you suppose will be 
needed in dying the wool, into the ash-hopper having sufficient straw in the 
bottom, to strain the dye well, then add boiling water to the iiulls, and as 
ihe dye runs oft'below, shift it into the dye-kettle, until the dye is run out 
of the hulls; then heat up the dye and dip the wool, mixing it well to 
make the colour uniforn),and al'ler being in the dye an hour or two, at boiling 
heat, take it out, air and cool it, then dip the wool again boil slowly 
lialf an hour, and leave it in the dye overnight; next day, if the vfool be 
not dark enough, put up some more walnut hulls, (managing as in the first 
case,) add the liquor run offlhe hulls to the dye in the kettle. and proceed 
"with the wool as before, letting it remain in the dye overnight, if necessary. 
In this way you cannot fail to have a fine colour. At receipt No. 5, will 
be found directions for changing this colour to a dark snuft" brown, but it 
must be remembered that, for this purpose, the walnut brown must be light. 

No. 18. Dark Drab, with Black-Oak &. White-Oak Bark. 

Five pouiuls of Wool; boil for two hours, two and a half pounds ground 
black-oak bark, and one eight of a bushel while-oak bark, cut fine, then 
take up the bark, dip the wool, boil slowly one hour, mix the wool carefully 
with the dye, that the colour may be even, tlien take up the wool, air 
and cool it, disslove tour ounces copperas, with two ounces blue vitriol, add 
to the dye; then dip the wool and mix it well with the dye, boil slowly 
half an hour, let it remain in the dye over night, then lake it out, rinse 
and dry. 

k No. 19. Dark Slate-Drab, with White-Oak Bark. 

Five pounds of Wool; boil for two hours, half a bushel white-oak bark, 
cut fine, and half a pound Camwood, take them up, and dissolve two ounces 
blue vitriol and add to the dye, stir well, dip the wool, boil slowly one hour, 



13 

then lake up the wool, air and cool it, add half a potjnd Logwood to the 
dye, boil it one hour, then take out the Logwood and dissolve six ounces 
copperas, add to the dye, dip the wool, boil slowly half an hour, and let 
the wool remain in the dye until the next day. 

No. 20. Dark Drab, with Madder; Five pounds of Wool, 

Boil for one hour, half a pound Fusiic and twelve ounces Madder then 
take out the Madder and Fustic, dissolve two ounces blue vitriol, and one of 
alinn, add to the dye mixing it well at the same time, then dip the wool, 
boil slowly one hour mixing the wool well with the dye, then take up the 
wool, air and cool it, dissolve six ounces copi)eras. add to the dye, then dip 
the wool and boil slowly half an hour, letting it remain over night m the 
dye, take up, rinse and dry. 

No. 21. Dark Drab, with Black and White Oak Bark. 

Five pounds of Wool, 'boil for two hours,one pound black-oak bark ground, 
and three gallons white-walnut bark, cut fine, then take them out, dissolve 
three ounces blue vitriol and one ounce of alum, add lo the dye, mix well and 
dip the wool boil slowly one hour, mixing the wool with the dye that it may 
colour uniform, then take tiie wool up and air ii; dissolve six ounces coperas, 
add to the dye with half a gallon chamberlye, then dip the wool, boil 
slowly iialf an hour, and let it remain until next day, in the dye, then 
rinse and dry it. 

No. 22. DARK DRAB, WITH FUSTIC &/ LOGWOOD. 

Five pounds of Wool; Boil for two hours, three-fourths of a pound Fustic 
and three-fourths of a pound of Logwood ; then take them out of the dye, dis- 
solve three ounces blue vitriol, and add to the dye, dip the wool, boil 
slowly one hour, then take it up, cool and air; dissolve six ounces copperas 
and add lo the dye; then dip the wool and boil slowly half an hour, mix it 
well wMh the dye, and let it remain over night. 

This is a fine dark colour, and improves in fulling and washing; but tho 
Logwood part of the dye will fade in wearing. 

No. 23. Light Drab, with Nut-Galls; Five lbs. WooL 

Boil for one and a half hours, six and a half ounces nut-gall, two and a 
half ounces madder, two ounces logwood and one and a half ounces fustic, 
with three ounces cream tartar; then takeout the dye drugs &. dip the wool ; 
boil slowly one hour, yien take up the wool, air and cool, dissolve two 
ounces copperas, add lb the dye, then dip the wool, mix it well with the dyo 
that the colour may be eren, let it remain ever night in the dye, rinsa 
and dry it. 



11 

No 24. A fice drab, partaking in a considerable degree the rich ap 
pearance of ihe bright snuff brown, may be obtained by following the 
above receipt, only omitting the copperas in the last dip. 

No. 25. Light Drab, with Fustic; Five pounds Wool. 

Boil for two hours, half a pound good Fustic finely cut, and four ounces 
Loawood ; then tai;e it cut, dissolve one ounce blue vitriol, add to the dye, 
mixing it well at the same time, dip the wool and boil slowly one hour, 
take up the wool, air and cool it, dissolve tbree ounces coperas, and add to 
the dye, with half a gallon chambcrlye, dip the wool and boil slowly, half 
an hour, mix well and let it remain in the dye over night. 

No. 2G. Light Drab, with Madder; Five pounds Wool, 

Boil for one hour; half a pound good Bladder and four ounces Fustic, 
with two ounces cream tartar, thfMi iiike out the dye drugs, dip the wool, mix- 
ing it well with the dye, boil slowly one hour, then take up tlie wool, air and 
cool it; dissolve one ounce blue vitriol and uvo ounces coperas, add to 
Ihe dye with half a gallon chamberlye, dip the wool, mix it well with the 
dye that the colour may be even, boil slowly iialf an an hour, lei the wool 
remain over night in the dj?e, rinse and dry it. 

No. 27. Light Drab, with BlackOak, and White-Walnut Bark. 

Five pounds wool: Boil, for one houra pound b!ack-oak bark, ground, 
with one peck white-wainut bark cut fine; then take up tiie barks, dissolve 
one ounce blue viiriol and add to the dye, dip '.he wool, boil slowly one 
hour, then take it up, air and cool it, dissolve four ounces copperas and add 
10 the dye, with half a gallon chaiii!)oriye, then dip the wool, mixing it v/e!l 
with the dye that the colour may be even, boil slowly half an hour, and let 
it remain overnight, next day take it out, jinseand dry it. 

No. 28. General Remarks on Drab Colours. 

Supposing (hat receipts, for all i5seful purposes, have been given in the 
way of drab colours. It may be resnurked that, almost any kind of drab 
may be obtained in a variety of v.'ays-, although this is the case, it is inn- 
portant to those who are interested, to be acquainted with the means by 
which these colours are produced, in their most perfect and durable slate. 
With this view, it may be remarked that, those dye drugs which afford 
permanent colors, and that approach nearest to the shade, we wish to obtain, 
may be safely used. Hence, brown drabs are the most durable of all oth- 
ers, for the simple reason that, we have materials in abuudance, that with 



15 

Tery little change, afford this color. Such, for instance, as Madder and 
Niit-Galls; Madder and White-Oak bark, Walnut Hulls, Sec. 

No. 29. For drabs on the yellow or olive-green shades, fustic, black- 
oak and hickory barks, any thing, in short, that affords a fast yellow, will an- 
swer the purpose; but unless these be used in connection with other dye 
drugs, with which copperas can act more efficiently, than on the yellow dye, 
colors will be produced, in which the copperas is in such a feeble and su- 
perficial state that, even weak acids and allcalies will neutralize it entire- 
ly, and the yellow, in such colors, will resume its natural shade. Hence, 
the reason, why this class of colors, on domestic cloths, slain so easily, and 
fade in washing and wearing. 

No. 30. 'J'o obviate this evil, recourse is had ro nut-galls, sumach, 
M?hite oak bark, and pin-oak barks, maple Liaik — any thing tliat can be in- 
troduced, with the yellow above .spoken of, with which copperas will com- 
bine, in such a way, as to resist the tendency, in this color, to stain and fade. 

No. 31. If, in addition to the above precautions, the color be made ia 
the wool, in place of being dyed on the web after the fulling is finished, 
the difikulty will be entirely removed; then the color being deposited in 
the pores of the wool, instead of the pores of the cloth, it cannot fail to be 
equally distributed through the body of the cloth; and the soap, in the 
process of fulling, will produce all the change tliat is likely to take 
place in the color, wh.ilst the cleansing the cloth of grease, by wash- 
ing,carries off any dye, tliat may have remained superficially attached to the 
goods. 

No. 32. In leaving this subject, thn Author will avail himself of the 
opportunity to say, that the receipts and plan recommended in drab col- 
ors, cannot be otherwise, than highly satipfiictory and useful to the public, 
if brought into general upe. Thw ; ,"s are very cheap — cost almost noth- 
ing, but a little time and labor, whilst many of them are very handsome, 
and if made as directed, are permanent c.s any other colors — will stand 
washing, when soiled by use, v^ithon! fading, and from the softness impar- 
ted to the wool, by fulling ai'ter being co'iieJ, cannot fail to have prefer- 
ence, in point of uiiliiy, over tiie common practice. In short, ha feels safe 
in saying, that cloth can be made in this wr.y at less cost, and twenty five 
percent, belter, than can be made of the same quality of woo! manufactu- 
red in the cominon way, and dyed in the Vv-fib after being fulled. 

No. 33. A better saddening than copperas maybe obtained, by procu- 
ring a peck or. more, (according to the quantity of goods intended to be 
dyed,) of iron scales at a blacksmith''s anvil block, mix them up in a vessel 
with chamber-lye, the evening before tliey are to be used; next day turn 
them into a box made into the form of an ashhopper, and apply hot water 
until jj^l^ strength is run off. 

No. 34. This is a much better saddening liquor, in many cases, thaa 
copperas, especially in Browns, blacks, and drab colors. 

No. 35. The only difficulty attentling itg use is, that the inexpe- 
rienced dyer has no rule, by vi^hich to apply iho proper quantity. This is 



16 

otiviated by applying ilia liquor at several times, gayonelialf at first ; 
afier the wool has been slowly boiled an hour, take some of it out, 
and wring out the dye; if the color appears, as though it would not be 
dark enough, take up the wool and add the remainder of the saddening, 
or as much as the case may require 

No. 30. In this way, you avoid the harshness that copperas sornetimea 
imparls to wool, and cannot fail to obtain better colors, and belter goods 
than can be oblained by the common use of copperas. 

No. 37. For some browns, intended to have a fine lustre of red, and 
others a lustre of red and yellow. An excellent saddening can be 
prepared from scales off iron, by putting up son)e wheat bran with scald- 
ing water iu a vessel, and letting it remain uniil it becosnes very sour, 
then straining it off, and using it on the iron scales according to the 
above directions. 

This plan is attended with some labor, it is true, but it should de recol- 
lected that, the work is your own, and that abundant compensation will be 
realized, from the superior color and quality of your clolh. 

No. 38. Ijoodon Brown, on Cloth or Yarn ; Five pounds. 

Boil in fair water two pounds good Camwood fifteen minutes, then dip 
and run the goods with a reel one hour, then take out the goods, air and 
cool them; fill up the vessel and raise the heat, then dip the goods and 
run, the dye boiling half an hour, lake them out, air and cool them, dis- 
solve two ounces blue vitriol and add to the dye, dip and run tlie goods, as 
before, half an hour, then take them up, air and cool them; dissolve four 
ounces copperas, add lo ihe dye, then dip and run the goods until the co- 
lour pleases. 

No. 39. If the copperas in the above dye be dissolved in good vinegar, 
the colour will be more lively and better; for this purpose set a tin-cup 
with half a pint of vinegar on some coals, to which add five ounces copper- 
as, and stir constantly, until the copperas is dissolved. 

No. 40. London Brown, on Cloth or Yarn; Five pounds. 

Boil two pounds good Camwood in fair water fifteen minutes, then dip 
the goods and run ihem in the dye tliree-fourlhs of an hour, lake them up< 
air and cool them, add half a pound Fustic and one peck Walnut-Hulls to 
the dye, fill up the kettle and boil one hour, theii dip and run the goods 
half an hour, take them up, air and cool ; dissolve two ounces blue Vitriol 
and one ounce Alum, add to the dye, then dip and run the goods half an 
hour, take ihern up air and cool; dissolve six ounces copperas in vinegar, 
as described in receipt thirty-nine, and add to the dye, then dip the goods 
and run uniil ihe colour pleases. 



17 

No. 41. London Brown, on Cloth or Yarn; Fivo pounds. 

T3i)i! iwo pounds C.unwooil in fair water fifiei'ii jniniitci!, iIkmi dip ibo 
pood;!, ■'iiid run il)ein in ilie dyo l>alf :in lioni ; lakft ilieiri np, air and cool 
tliein, add lo th<; dye, liueefuinilis of" n poniid lil.ick oak l)ark, ^ronnd aa 
for lanniiifj, and one peck wliiit'-wrilnni baik, cm fiiH?; fill up ihe keiiio and 
boil il)i;l)aiU one Imnr, iliontiip ilio goods and run then half an hour, dig- 
soivo two ounces Idiio viuiid and one oiince of aimn, add lo ilit; dye, lliea 
<iip ilie <^ood.-i, and rirn ilniiiin ilie dye half an lionr, take ilifmuj), air and 
«o()i liieui; dissoWt; in vinej^Mr six <inncc8 cofiperus and add tu 1 he dye, tlien 
(iij) llie goods anil run unlU the colour sniis. 

No. 42. DARK LONDON BROWN; 5 Founds. 

Boil two pounds Camwood in fiir water fifiefrn rninnleg, llicn dip ih© 
goods, and run ihein i:i the dye, ihirii- uiiiiute-i; lake ihetn np, air and cool 
ihein; aihi half a pound of Fusiic, and lialf a p<'ck of walnut hiilla !o ibe 
dye, and hoil one hour, tak« iheni up and air and cool them, then add half 
» pound of loi.nvood l(» the dye, !ill up the keiile and hoil half an hour, 
then <iip and run the goods halt an hour, lake them up, and add livo oun- 
€63 of hlue Viiriol, and {ive<Mtnces of copperas dissolved, lo the dye, autJI 
«|,i|) and ran the goods iiniil llie color suits. 

No. 43. Red, with Camwood. 

Five pounds of yarn; hojliwo pounds of good Camwood in fair wat©? 
for haH an liour, then dij) and run ilie goods for thret'-quarlerd of an hour, 
lake ihein out, air and C()oi :lier!i; fiH up the kettle and dip the goods, and 
run Iheui half an hour, take iheni out, airand cool iheni; dissolve two 
ounces of hlue Vitriol, and two ounces of alum ;ind add lo the dye; thea 
dip liie goods and run liiern in llic dye, until tiie ci^hx suits. 

No. 44. Rod, with Camwood and Fustic. 

Five pounds of yarn; !>oil Uvo pounds of Camwood and half a pound of 
Fustic in fair water, for halfan hour, dip ami run liie goods (or thirty iuin- 
Ules, then take liiern out, air asid cool them; fill up liie kettle, and 
dip and run theiri, as before, for hall an hour; tiicii lake out ilie goods and 
cool iliem; diss<ilve two ounces of hlue Yitrioj and one (uince of aiuin, 
and add to liie dye; :hendi|)ai)d run liie goods, until the color suits. 

No. 40. I3oili llio ai)ove coloij are a Utile on ihe brown oider, and al- 
though liiey wear a len<;iii of lime, wiilioui lading i/iuch. iliey rhanije still 
, more to tlie brown, and more p.inicuiarly so, if w.isiied. Bt'ing very cheap, 
they ar(; frcqiienily used in carpeting, 'i'lie Fusiic, in the last receipt, 
gives ihe color an orange linge, winch may be increased by udduig Fus- 

s 



18 

tic to suit tlie fancy nf the dyer; tbe fustic, in lliig dye, has alao the tendon* 
ey to render ihe culor nuiie fast. 

No. 4Q. PINK COLOUR; FIVE POUNDS. 

Fill youi kelda with fair water, and, wlioii at bfiiling heal, add tvvelr» 
©unces aintn and six ounces cream lariiu. boil fil'loen ininiiiep, mix lb« 
•lye well, take off what sciirn may rise, dij) ibe g'«od9 and rnn ihpjn, tba 
dye boilinjir one lionr; take iliern iij), air and cool ihom; empty ili« dy* 
froiri your kettle snd (ill with fair water, and add iweive ounces ;.'ood mad^ 
der; riii«H the goods in clear naier, and when ihe dye is near boiliiig, h&V" 
ilxg been ficquenily stirred, dip ti)e yoods andriin lliem one hour. 

No. 47. VIOLET COLOR; FIVE POUNDS. 

Boil for one liotir, one and a fonrth pnnnds of jjood Brazil vrood with se- 
ten ounces (if lo(^nvood in fair water; di«.<(dve four onnci-s of alnm. and 
add to the dye; i lien di|) and run liie jjocds half an hour; iben takf^ them 
ii«», sir and cool litem; tlieii fill up the i<elile and raise the ht;ai of the 
dye, and dip and run the yoods as befmr-, half an hour, llien take ihem up 
and cool, then add half a yalloaciiamberlye, and dip and run the ^'ouds u»- 
til the color please;?. 

A niitnber of shades, of lliis color, may be made in this kind of dye, by 
Tarying the Logvvood and Brazil, tosnil the fiiicy of the dyer. This co- 
lor is very fine, and alilion^h not petinaueii!, may answer in ariidea not «*• 
^sed to the snn and weather. 

No. 43. RED WITH Id ADDER; FIVE POUNDS YARN. 

Fill yo'tr kctlle with fair water, and ad<l liiree tjiiarts of wheat brnn, 
Kiix it well, raise the heat, wlien ncaldi;);^ hot liiebran will lise to the top, 
tske it oli' wiiii a ^kimmer and add orte pound alum aitd four onncea rrcaoi 
lartur. Ininy the dye to boil, dip and run llie i;<n»(js one and a hnlf iionr, 
boiliuji; modiiralely all the time, then lake np tlie ^looda and rinse them 
carefully, in clear water, fill the kefle wiih fair water and add three qiiartg 
wheitt bran, raise the h'/at moderately, mi.\in</ the bran well lhroiii.di the 
water, and when the water becoiiics hot enough to lai.-'e the bran, ?kim it 
off, then lower t!ie heat by throwing a few pails of cold water in the ket- 
ll*, Hiui add two pounds f.'ood Madder, and mannge the fire so, that th« 
madder m^iy be half an hour al least in the dye withoul boilino|, during 
thiK lime, it ought loiie frequently well siirsed with liie dye, then dip the 
Ifooda and ma them caiefnily one hour; beinj; pariicular not to let the dy« 
ioil, then take up the goods, air and cool, iiil up the kettle, raise the heat 
kKd when the dye come? near to a boil, flip and run xhf Jjoods, ss befor*, 
ilifre-tjunrterB uf an hour, let the dye boil, :<ay three miuutats, and lak« tif 

^9 £0ud3. 



19 
No. 49. GENERAL REMARKS ON MADDER RED. 

There are different ways of selling lliis coloror biij^lilninjj, asil is frequent- 
ly culled. Some dyers would udd liuif a gallon cl)arnl)erlye to liie <jye, 
and run llie i^'oods lo finisl): others would em|)iy ilie keiile and slarl a 
new dye, in wiiicli iliey would boil liall'a pound Hnizil wood, and run llie 
goods for a finish — others, again, lay aside the- Alurn liquor, in which ihs 
j[oods were first dip[)ed, ami set the color in that. 'I'hc hest, however, vvilk 
which l!ie author is acquainted, would he to mix cli;iiimborlyo and waier« 
•qual parts cf each, sufiicienl to immerse the 1,'oods in, and when healed to 
almost scalding, handle the goods carefully through, for about {il'tcen mio- 
Btes and hang iheni up to snti and air — aiKJther very good way is, lo inuk« 
B strong soap-suds, have it middling warm, lu which hanc'le the goods care- 
fully, as in the former case. 

No. 50. There are many places, that do not afford water sufficienlly 
pure, for coloring good madder red, the bran is used in the madder dye lo 
cleanse the water. 

Madder contain? several colours, one of which is brown, and is injurioui 
in dying red; but water does not extract the brown color, readily, unless it 
is made lo boil; for this reason, ruadder red is dyed with as liiile boiling 
ss possible; for the same reason, something may be gained by welting up 
the madder, with warm water, in a clean bucket or crock, the day before it 
it used; ilio red color will be extracted easier, than if added in a dry siat« 
U) the dye. 

No. 51. A be.-»titifiil snuff brown mar be made in the madder dye, af- 
ter the red is finished, by adding one and a fourth pounds Fiisiic, or as 
Bsuch black-oak bark ground; boil well one hour, then let it remain over 
uiillht; liext day dip oif the dye until it is got clear of the grounds; then 
return ihe d\e to the kettle; heat the dye, and add two ounces blu*" Vitriol 
*Hd lour ounces copperas, then dip six or eight pounds of woid that liaa 
teen dyed a good walnut brown; boil slowly halt an hour, and niix liie 
wool well willi the dye, that the c<jlor may be even, and lal it remain 
aver niglit in the dye. 

No. 52. YELLOW WITH FUSTIC; FIVE POUNDS YARN. 

Bi)i! one and a half pnn!)d3 Fustic, onr hour, in fair water; then add lialf 
a p«Uiid alum to the dye, mix y\c\\, dip the goods and run t!i«fin carefully 
kalfan hour, take lliom up, air snd coo! then); fill up the k*t'.le and raise 
the heat; dip and run the gO(jda as before, Ijoiling l'(,'r half an hour, then 
t«ke up the goodsaiid air them ; if the yellow he not deep and bright cnoujjh, 
add more alum, and run the goods until the c(dor suits. 

No. 53. YELLOW, WITH BLACK-OAK BARK. 

Five pounds yarn; boil for half an hour; two pounds binrk-oak bark, 
|pr*uHii its fur lannete, ii) ftiir water, tlisiulve inelve ouiicta&lunk tnui ad4 



20 

(o the dye; mix well, dip nnd run 'lie gnnds cnrefr.lly half an Iionr; then 
take up the yarn and cool it: fill up the keiile and raise iheheai; di|)and 
run the goods as hefme, and if the color he not full and hriglil enough, 
add more alum and run, till lh« color jjlt'ases. 

No. 54. These receipts will answer ('"r yellow with hiclvory hark, or 
hickory and hlack-oak, or peach leaves or a[)ple hark; ail that is necessa- 
rv. is to ado()t whatever hitrk is itreferred, in place of llial desciibed in the 
receipt. Nature has supplied ns so liberally with materials for liie yel- 
low dye, that we are someiimes at a K)ss to make choice from among 
them. 

No. 55, They are all, however, dependent on alum or acid of sorrio 
kind, for their beauty, and jiisi in proi)oriion to the .s!ren(j;h of the acid 
Msed in the dye, so will he the fulness and clearnct^s of ihe yellow. 

No. 5(3. Among all the articles thai afiord tiiis ccdor, there is none, 
perh.<i)s cheaper, or belter adapted to general use. than the hlack-ouk bark, 
as it imparls, wiien pioperly apjilied, every variety of shade, wiihall thd 
fjchnei<s of which the yfdiow dye is snscepiible. 

No. 5(5. 'I'ons, of this vahnble :'.rticie. are exported annually to foreign 
countries for ctdtuing purposes, while we im[)nrl large quaniiiies of yoU 
low dyes, 'osujj])!y the place of a l;elter article gri)wing on our own farms. 

No. 57. 'i'lie same th'iig may he said with reyard lo the brown dye; 
there is no C(dt'riag matter whatever, that can make a more jieruiauent 
color, than walnut l)arksaiid walnut hulls. Were the bark of the huiier- 
But taken oll'al the rigiit ticne, and treated as black oak is for tanning, and 
carefully put up for coloring purjioses, with the aid of maddur and hlack- 
eak, the very best of browns could be dyed, either on wool, llannel or cloth, 
as well as anuird)erofothercolors,e(pially valuable anil worthy ouraiieiilion. 

No. 53. iMidder also is equaily wori'hy ol our notice. If ihis ariicle ba 
uol cultivated for export, it oiighi at least to be otiliivated by ahnosi every 
family, to such an exieni, as would supply tlieir own wants. A great part 
of the fertile lands, in the Ohio Vidley. would produce Madder of good 
quality, with shout as jiilie laiiour as is needed in the culiivation of the 
Artichoke. In a soil snfiiciently r>pen and lichihe Madder |)lant will ex- 
tend iis roots the ihtrd year, afiMr settling to the depth of three feet, and 
literally fill the soil, on which ii grows, with a net work of roois — whilst 
all the cost incurred ill ihs production of lids valuable dye drug is to give 
it room in some r.orner of your garden or lot, and preveiillhe weeds Iroin 
overriiiiing it the first year. 

Tbe iliird year al''«f |)i.iniing, Madder comes to malnriiy, btit will con- 
tinue to grow as Inxurianily ;is ever. Tiiose who ruliivule ir for iheir 
own us(^, select afier the third year, tlie fine roots «>nly. for colorinii bright 
reds, ami throw aside the coarser roots for brown dyes. These roois are used 
for coloring red, wiih no oilier |)rei>araiiun liiau that of washing, when ta- 
ken up. and being bruised liefore they are used in liie dye-ketile. 

To farmers and oiheis, it maybe an inquiry of some imerest. wlieliier 
the production, on uur own ianus, of this valuable dye-drug, which vvouli 



21 

beratlieran nrrreealile amupcmoiit fdr our cliilclron, in a leisure fionr limn 
a lahoiious Insk, iiiiglu not bo more advaniiiijeoiis, lluin cxc.lianyiug biiller, 
al from four lo six cciiis per jxitind, lur ilie foreign ariicle. 

No. 59. PRUSTAN BLUE OR CYMIC. 

'^Tako half a pound good Flolonp Indi<j;(> and grind if fine, llijs may lis 
done on a sluve piale wiiii an old i-tncniljing-iroti (or a rnliber, pass iIih In- 
digo tl)ro!)gli a sieve made for (iiat pnipni.-e, ilie Indigo itiat remains in ijie 
sieve must be gronnd again, and wben all is rfdnred loa very fiim |j()>»dfr, 
put two and a lialF pounds besi qnaliiy of oil of Vitriol; in w sione crock, 
jng, or pilciier, ibat will bob! six or ciglii (piarls, arid the indigo and mix it 
eftV'clually wiib ibe Vitriol, ilienadd one ounce fine Sail, mix the vvliole 
well logetlif r by constant stirring for an hour, or until it fjets settled dowH 
and cool, for il will lieal and foment very mud) at first. 

No. GO. GENERAL REMARKS. 

The oil of Vitriol, is used in tiio al)f>ve prei)araiii)n, to dissolve the Indi- 
go, wiiicii cannot be done unless itiade very fjuc ; hence, we use a sieve and 
j^rind over what does not pass through it. 

No. GJ. The sieve may be made by stretching a bit of open muslia 
©«er a hoop of proper size. 

No. G2. There are several kinds oil of Vitriol, some are not pure, and 
«tliers are too weak for tiiis use. Tlie best quality is ilio only kind that vvilJ 
dissolve the lodigo, or answer any good purpose in tiiis composiiiwn. 

No. G3. A vessel, that holds .seven or eit'lii times the (juaniity of tho 
<snm})ound, must be used for rtiixiug it in. Wlien the Indigo and Sdi are 
added lo the oil of Viiri-jl, it fcmems and heats very much, and incr4»s«s 
in bulk, to such adegiee that it would run over if moI prevented by the 
above precaution; The \essermusl be clean, for oil or fat of any kind 
would spoil the preparation. VViien the mixture isfinishid, keep il close,, 
stirring il occasionally, i"or four or five day.s, and it is fu f(jr use. 

No. 4Ct. ANOTHER METHOD FOR BLUEING, OR CYMIC. 

Take half a pound good common Indigo, atul three pounds oil of Vitriol, 
with one fourth of a pound stone Lime; put these together as described 
before; this will i)e fit for use in furiy-eight houis. 

If Flotong Indigo, which is the Ix'st for this use, cannot be had, S';lect 
the softest and best you can get, soft lu'ligo is tile eaf^iesl ground or mutle 
line, and dissolves better in the oil of Vitriol, than hard. 
* No. G5, This composition is commonly used for dyeing greens. One 
Btmce of good indigo, well prepared in Ihis way, will color iliieo pounds of 
jarii a good green. 



23 

No. 60. PRUSSIAN BLUE. 

Fill your keltlfi wiih fiir water, heal it nearly builinj; hot, then add cf 
yovir Cyinic or bhieing a li:ile, siir ii well with the water, then dip lh« 
goods and run lliem cnrcfiilly fifieeii tninules, lake op ihe ^nods, air and 
ctK)l them, then add more of the l)lnf:iiiir, dij) aiid run the goods a3 before; 
cioniiiiue adding llie blnciMc;iii small (]uaiililies, dipping and running fbo 
goods, until ijie color suiis, being careful each lime ihat blueing is added, 
to mix it well with ilie dye., and change the end of the gfK)d3 sfach time 
you dip, so that thf! end ihal went into ih'e dye last the first dip, may jjo 
in first ihe second dip, lliisisdono in order to make the color even. 

If the Idiising bo mixed in a bncket of cold wal«r, and added to ibe 
dye, it will bo heller and safer; someiiuics, if ihe blueing be poured into 
boiling dve, it sphishes aliout and the d^er is in danger af being sscaldcd. 

The Prussian or Saxon blue, iliongh a brighl color, does not po«\scs3 iho 
food qualilies of the coujmon indigo blue, being a lively briglil color; it is 
consfquenilv, used in arliclts, nut exposed to liie weather or frequerill,/ 
vaahed. 

iYa. 67. GREEN; FIVE POUNDS YARN. 

Boil, In f.nr waler, Iwo pounds of Fns'icone hour; ihcn add one nnnce 
slum, dip and run ihe yarn h.lf an lionr, the dye being boiling; lake up 
iho goo«s and add about one fouriii of your blueing or Cliymic, mix il 
tyeU wiik trtiB dye; ihen di|» and run the goods fifteen miuulcs. having iha 
dy« boiling; ilieH lake up the goods and air and cool them; add one fourth 
more of the blueing, and dip and run the goods as before; continue loadtJ 
Wueing little by little, and to dip ;ind run ihe c<'"ds till the coliu' pleases. 

'J'liis is among the very hcBt methods for dying a brighl Sixon green, and 
filthoujjit, there is C(uisulerable of care and judgment required in liie pro 
ces.s, foiiuw tlie recei[)i, and you cannot fail to iiave a fine color. 

No. OS. GREEN; FIVE POUNDS YARN. 

Biiil 1 wo pounds I'^oi'lic one hour; then add half an ounce of alum, and 
«!i|t and run ilio goods till they area gnod yellow; ihef. add ihe l»lu«ing, a 
liule al a lime, Ki»d liip and run the gonds, as in tiie former receipt, until 
the color is well r.iised; then add a little copperas and logwood to darkea 
ikte color, and run tiie goods lill ihe color pleases. 

No. GV>. CJii'CCEB. 

For five pounds yarn: boil, in fair water, two pounds Fuslic. one hour; 
tken dissolve jialf an ounce alum, and add to the dye, with (me half of ijio 
klueing. Mix it well with the dye, dip and run the yarn lliiriy minutes, 
Uiic up ihe yarn, air and cool; then add the rest of the blueing, and run tlv« 



S3 

yarn in the ^]ye again halfiin lirmr, tlio dye boiiinij; take up ili« yarn and (lis- 
soivu lialfan ounce bine viniul, and add to iho dy«; llien dip and run tiia 
goods, liil the culor pleases. 

No. 70. BijUSe CSs'ccEa. 

Forfivn pounds yarn: boil one and a hah' pounds Fu3lic oi:e honr. its- 
fn»\ve half an ounce alum, and add lo liu: dy; mix tho dye well, an«J dip 
and run liie goods halfan hour; ialie np the <jood>-i and .lir liieni, then dip 
and run ihe ^onds as befurf, iiavinj^ ihe dye lo biii!; lake np the ^'ood», 
i»dd halftlio bliJcini,', and run ihegoodiin the dye hall an hour; laketiiern 
np and adil the re^l of iii« binding, mix it vvc;il with ilie (iyi>, run th« yooda 
as belor^, iiavin^ the dye to boil; take np ti)« ;j()od«i and air ihein; iiil up 
the kettle, add halt' a pountJ h>;,'wood to liie dye, and boil it f'oiiy niinnles. 
Grind hall" an ounce verdlyris line, (iissolve it in halt" a pint of vineyar, and 
add to tho dy(.-;siir Ihe dye vvnil, (3Jj) and run tin; ^oods Ioiiy niiniiits, the 
dye boding; then take np the goods and air tiien), dissolve six ounces of 
copperas in liail" a fjini of vinci^'ar, ad<! one hall to the dye, and run the goods 
half an iionr; tiisn take them i.'i), air nut] cool ihfin; if not dark enough, 
add the rest of liie copperas, and run tlie j^oods till the color pleasi^s. 

Tiiis is the host vvayof ni:ikiii<r a hoiile x'^'*""! wiih S i.\ou blue or Chj- 
mic, tiia! the auilior is acquainted wiili; but he cannot rocoin'riPiid it. as a 
fast coliT. Ail iias been i'ume.Uy the best <iver-» in E<in>pe and Aiiierica, 
tiiat art an<i experience could jingoes!. lo jnaku the S.:.\on bines and greeiMi 
permanent, bullhns far, it has been a failure. 

No. 71. 'i'o diss(dve ViM'di^i is in Vinegar. i^J;ike i; firiP, as «ie3C!'i5)ed 
in the preceding receipt, and mix il v.itl, (he Viupi^ar in a tin cu|); set it 
on sonie co.;:?, and stir i; coiiilnuariy lifieen niinu'.es; d)a;solving copperas 
iii Vinegar had already been desciiljcd. 



I ft. 7: 



'ottSe €?jr€C33, 



For five pounds Yarn: Fi'l y'"it" keiile viiih fair water, bring it fo boil, 
dissolve three ounces bhit; viwiol and adi lo ilse dvt': <lip and run the 
joods half an hour; lake thi-ni up, air and c,o(d iIi«/m; add •►no p<innd fns- 
ic, and iliiet;fiMirihs of a pound Loywood to the dve, and I'oil well one 
lour; ihen dij) and run the goods, till the ct>lur pleases, and you will iiav»e 
I fine bottle green. 

No. 73. Ga'Jiisjs Qii'ccE3. 

Five pounds wool : Doil two and a hrdf pounds Fustic one honr. dissol^o 
twelve ounces Alnni and liiree ounces Cream oi' 'j'artar, and acid to the 
dye; mix the dye well, and dip ami run Uie ^ooiis o!ie hour; lake ihen> up., 
air and cool them: then add one third of ib*' blui.iny, mix il well niih tho 
dj'e, dip and run ihc goods half aii hour; then tuku them up, and air them; 



04 

fill up ihc kolllp, ndci more of the blneinjr, and continue fo rnn the goods; 
add of the liliiinij iiniil the coior |)le;i8cs. 

All tins class of colors are ot'JL^ciionabie; for tlicy fade in wasliing and 
wearin<,'. 

N<i. 74. The beauty of t!io colors, tho velvet like corincs?, imparled 
to the jjoods l>y 'lie dye, as weil as (he hope fif sh()iieriiii<» the i)rnt;cs;s of 
blue dviii;;, — have heeti indiireiiiems, sedicienlly slroii/j, to enlist in its 
favor liie iiiosi iiniiriiig i(i<!ii.-^!rv and peT.severance; hiii ihtis far (;ind it 
is much to he rejL'it'iK d.) liio best eil'iirl?, of the most expiMienred 
Chytnisis and dyers, have laib-d ia ntakiii^r iist colors, iiowever beaniiriil 
they may ai first appear, wnh v.'jy prepuiaiion of Indiuo, where oil t;f Vi- 
triol was ust'd as a solvent. 

No 75. in niakiii^r ihe above romniks, t!ic anlhor does not wish lo h» 
'onderslood, as reftresenting ilie aliove class of colors, "as rdso^jelhcr 
worihle?s; nor is it his wish, lo lead any one astray, from their own inter- 
est; and although, these ccdors will not stand wi'shiiijj nor exposure to iii« 
sun and weather. — yet there wre a variety of nselui pniposes, to wliick 
they can be safely appropriated. 

Bessie ISrceES. 

Five pounds goods: Dissolve in fair vatcr. two ounces blue vilrlol.and 
three ounces cream of tartar; hritig (he inixtiije to boil, di[> and rnn t!i» 
goods one hour; lake them np, air and cool iliem; then add two jjoiind 
go»d logwood, and one pound fitstic; boil them uno lionr; then dip anu 
run the goods one hour; lake Shein np and coid them, and add one 'gill 
blueing and one ounce verdigris, dissolved as described at raceipt, (Nq. 
70.) to the dye: mix it well, dip and rnn the goods halfan hour; tak« 
them up, air and con! them: disolve six ounces of copperas in vinegar (ai 
liiscribed at receijn No. 30.) and add to the dye; then dip aiid run ihe goo4^ 
uU the color jileases. 

Five pounds: Boil two pounds Logwood one hour in fair water, the 
add six ounces Madder, and si.K ounces Alum. Boil slowly fificen mitr 
Btee, dip the goods and run ihein in the dye, half an hour; take them n 
and air them. Fill np the kettle, and raise the heat; dip and run the jiood 
its belore, half an hour; then take ih-^i!) up and air ihem — grind half a 
uuuce Verdigris very (iue, mix it with one pint of chand)erlye in a propr 
reseel, and girnnK-r iliem logetlicr, consianily stilting '.ill well mixed ar^ 
diwtilved; add il to the, five uiiii one <iailon chamberlye, mi.'C the djje 
well together, dip and run liie goods until the color pleases. 



iQ. 7 



KIeis '^^/i^ia L[;!oa^wcod. 



Five pounds wool or yam. Fill the dye kettle with fair water, and 
hring to boiling In-ai, [ake one piumd copperas, a quarter of a pound al- 
um, and two ouiices crude tartar; pulverize these tugetl;cr, and add lo the 



25 

boiling water. Skim the ^ye, and stopils boiling; dip the goods nnd run 
them 111 the dyo liulfai) hour; t:ike thorn up, afid air them; llieii dip and 
run them in dye, as liefore, half an hour; lake up liio jjoods iind riii[)i y and 
<rlean ilie koitle, :ind fill vviiii fair vv;iier: add <iiio and a liiilC pniinds log- 
wood, and l)oil isnlf an lioni; ilieii adti four ounces rnndder, le( Iho dyo; sim- 
mer fii'iccn niinntes, add Imif an ounce verdigris prenaied as in ilie ias( re 
ceipi; and add also half a gallon chamt)er-lye. ■ M\\ ilie wlnde well to- 
gether in the dye, dip and run liie gocds hair an hour, ihen lake up and 
air ihcm: add half an ounce pearlash to the dye dip and run ihe goods un- 
til the color pleases. 

Mo. 78. Sllcic witla IjO^woodl. 

Five pounds wool: Fill ihe kcllle wiih fair water, and hrin^j 'o !)oil; dis- 
solve twelve ounces alum, three ounces cream of tartar, and iwooiincei 
blue Viuiol, and add to ihe dye. Mix the dye well, dip ihe wdol. and 
boil slfiwly one hour: let il remain three hours in the dye, mixing the wool 
wiih the dye, occasionly, tint' the cidor may ho unifurm; tiicn lake nptho 
wool, and air it ; pile it chsely in a heap, and lei il remain over nighi ; next 
<3ay empty the ketlleand fill with firir water, to which add two pounds log- 
wood, and boil one hour; then lake up ths logwood, fill up the keulc,and 
add four ounces madder; simmer ihe dye fiCieen minutes, and add two 
ounces blue Viiriol, four ounces copperas, and one gallon chami>er!yej 
mix ihe dye well, and dip the wool; boil slowly one Ik or, ihen lake up tha 
"n'ool, air and cool it, reuini il to the dye, and boil slowly half an hour; 
let it remain till next day, then rinse and dry it. 

These c(dors leave the wool soft audsland fulling and washing well, 
but fade in wearing. 

I¥o. 79. To (CirasBiiSale T'm. 

Tako of the purest blocklin ihe quanliiy intended for use, and melt jt 
5n a ladle; liieu pour ilvery slowly inio a bucket of clean waler, holding 
tiie ladle about two feel above the bucket, then take out the tin and drjr 
k for use. 

Mo. S®. IflsLnrso SasSpI^atc of Tm. 

Put lliree pounds Muriatic acid in a large glass boille or s!one-jar, to 
whicii add., very slowly, one pound fine grain tin, prepared as above dpscri- 
Ijcdjaiid afier the tin, add very sh)w|y, two pounds oil of Viiiiol. VV'liea 
this mixture has remained in a warm loom thirty-six hour*:, it isfii fur use, 
1)111 will ifiiprove by slandinc several weeks. Tlie good (jualiiy of tha 
above composiiion, will depend, very much, on the care wiiii whi<li liio tin 
and vitriol lire added to the mnriaiicacid. The tin simidd lie added at the 
slow rate of four ounces per hour, and the oil of Vitriol should also be 
i£dded verv slowlv. 



26 

. §2. I^'tlratc of Tiia. 

Mix, in a stnne jar. fIx pourids nitric, acid, vviili six pon /ids rain water, fl» 
whicliadfi, very slowly, one [)nu!id fine grain tin. and siir well; llien add 
ten ounces Saianunoniac, and stir well. Tliis soliiiiim will he fit. for uaa 
in twelve hours — the tin should be added wiili the s;une care, as in Iha 
precedinrj receipt. 

No. S2. Bright Si.uff Brourn, with Tilurio Sulphafc of Tin. 

Five ponds of Wool: boil for one lionr in fair waicT, fonr and a half 
pounds Black-oak bark ground as for tanning; then take np the bark, and 
add to tlie dye five ounce* ninrio sn'iihate oi' Tin, five onvice"? alnm, and 
two onnccs crude tartar. Boil these tilleen tnlnuies, add a bucket «jf cold 
r/aterto the dye, mixing it well ai the same time; then dij) the wool, and 
boil slowlv one hour, mixing the wool r-arerully with i.'ie dye, that the co- 
lor may be even. Then takenp the wool and rinse it — shift the dye fron» 
the kettle, and fill with fair .water, to which add two and a half ponnda 
ground C;unwood and iliirtoen onnces L'>aw.ood, and boil them one hour; 
then take up the Loj^wo-^d and Camwood, and dissolve one ounce bln^ 
Vitriol, and three onncr-s Copperas, and ad<l to the dye T^lis ihern well, 
and dip the wool; boil slowly iialf an hour, mixin<j the \vo(j1 carefully with 
the dye, and bit remain in the dye over ni^hi; ne;a day take il up, and 
rinse and diy it. 

No. 83. Bright Sniiff Broii'n, mth Murio Sulphate cf Tin. 

Five pounds wool: boil six ounces black-oak bark in fair water half an 
hour, take np the bark, and add to the dye four ounces Murio Sn![)h/i!e of 
Tin, four ounces Alum, and two ounces crude tartar. B;)il the dye fif- 
teen tiiinutes, mix it well, and dip the Vv'ool; mixing ii well with the dye, 
and boil sbuvly one hour; then lake up the woo!, air and cool ii; fill \\\t the 
kittle, and dip the wool again; boil slowly, iialf an iiour. and let il re- 
main in the dye over nighi; next day take it upand rinse it, shift tlie dyo 
from the kettle, anrl wash it; fill with fair water, and add two pounds 
good Madder and twelve ounces Logwood, and dip the Wf)(d; boil slowly 
one hour, ihen take up the wool, air and cod ii ; dissolve four ounces cop- 
peras, and -A^d to the dye; dipijio wool again, mixing it caretully wiih tlio 
d^'e, boil slowly half an hour, and lei it remain in the dye over night. 

No. 84. French Brown, with Nitrate of Tin. 

Five pounds of wool: fill the dye kettle with fair water and bring it to 
boil, then add ten ounces Alum, five «)uncps crude tartar, and two ounces 
nitrate of tin; boil fifteen rninuies, mix tlie dye well, and dip the wool, 
carefully mixing il in the dye, and boil slowly three hours; Ihen take up 
the wool, air and cool il; pile it op closely, ami let it remain uiidisiurbed 
for thirty six hours. At tho end of which time, have a dye prepared by 



57 

boilinj. in fair water, fwelre ounces Logwood, and two and a half pownd« 
Fnslir. one Iioiir; ihrn lower llie licni of ihe dye, by addiiifr cold wales, 
and add two and a lialf pounds JM.ulder; lot tlie dye stand wiilioiit boiling 
©no boiir, tliei\ take out the dye siiilF, and (iip liie wool; boil slowly on* 
l)oiir, tlien take up the wool, air and cool it; dissolve four ounces copperas, 
and two onnces blue vitriol, and rnix well with the dye; relnrn the wool 
to the dye, and boil slowly one hour; let il remain over night it the kel* 
lie, next day take it up, and rinse and dry it. 

Ne. 85. Bottle Green, on Wool. 

Five ponndg Wool: dye it a li<jlit Iiidiijo bloc, and have a dye prepared 
bv boiling, in fair water, one pound Sumac one hour, dissolve six ounces 
Alinn and four ounces Crude tartar, take up the Sumac, and add the At- 
nm and tartar; dip the wool and boil slowly two hours, carefully stirring tho 
wool witli the dve. that the color m;;y be uniforai; th.en take up the wool, 
air and cool il. \y.\c il tip in a close heap, and let it remain so for 
tweniy-i'our houis. at the end of vvhicli time, have a dye prepared, by boil- 
iii!:, for two hours, five pounds Fusiic and twolve ounccsi Madder, in fair 
water; take u))tb(? Fusiic and Madder, and dipihn wool; boil slowly tw* 
hours, tnixiufj the wool well wiih the dye; then take up the wool, and air 
it; dissolve four ounces copperas, and add to the dye; reiurn the wool ta> 
the dye, boil slowly lialf an hour, and let il remain over ni;^lit; next day 
trfike it up, rinse and dry it. 

No. SG. Bo'llc Green on Wool, tcith Murio Sulphate of Tin, 

Five pounds wool : first dip, (a liobt indigo blue) then have a dye prepa- 
red by boiiing two hours in fair water, twelve ounces logwood and (our 
pounds black-oak bark; lake up the dyestuflT, and add to the dye, six ouuccs 
tnurio sulphate of till, four ounces alum, two ounces crude tartar; boil 
them fifieen tninuies mix the dye well, dip liie wool ; boil slowly one hour; 
then lake up the wool, and air it; fd! up tlie keltic, and return the wool 
to the dye; boil half an hour, mixiuii Ihe wool well in the dye, that \ho 
color iriav be uniform, and let the vvuol remain iu the dye over ui^ht, next 
dayritiPu and dry it. 

No. 87. Bright Green, for Cloth, Flannel, or Yarn, with Murio Sul- 
phate of Till. 

Five pounds: first dip, (a light indigo bine) then have a dye prepared, I'' 
boiling in fiir vvaier, for one hour, three and one fiurth pounds black-oak 
bark, ground as for fanner's use; then take up the bark and disolve two oun- 
ces crude tartar, and add to the dye, with five ounces murio sulphate of tia; 
mix tiie dye well, then dip and run the goods, carefully, with the reel, 
until the color suits. 



. 28 

No, 88. Dark Green on Cloth, Flannel, or Yarn, with Mvrio SuJ.'cf Tin. 

Five poiuKis: The gnods must Imvc been dyed in the wool, a li'jlit In- 
digo l)liie. Fill your dye kelllo wish (air water, and Liriiig ii io boil; ihen 
dissolve iiair a pound Alum, and five ounces crndo tartar, and iidd to the 
dye: boil five miiniles; mix well, ilien di|) and run the goods, with the 
reel, carefully opening them to air, as they jjass over the reel; «:oiitinu9 
this o()eratioii two iionrs. Then reel np the goods, let tliern (irain a few 
miniJlcs, and fold lliern over oil the cooling ho rd ; air lliern over, and fold 
them np closely: lot ihciii remain closely packed up. and covered Iwonty- 
four hours. Empty the kettle and wash it; fill with fair water, and boil 
three and a fourth pounds Fnsiic one hour; then cool the dye, i)y adding 
a bucket of cold water, and seven ounces good Madder; let liie dye 
simmer half an hour, dip and run the goods, till the color pleases. 

Mo. 89. Bright Crcen for Baize, or Flannel, n-ilh Murio Sulphate 
of Tin, and Sulphate of Indigo. 

Five pounds goods: boil one hour, in fair water, two and a half pounds 
fclack-oak bark ground: then take up tlie bark, and disolve three and a half 
ounces aIum,one and a halfounces crude tartar, ar.d add to the dye, with four 
ounces murio sulphate of tin; slop the boiling of the dye, by adding a 
feucket cold water; then having the dye well mixed, dip and run ihe good^ 
reeling them carefully fiom end to end, aiid opening, and airing well; ia 
about iweniy minutes, bring the dye to boil, and run tlie goods one hour 
Jonger, the dye boiling; then take up the goods, air and cool ihem; thea 
add Saxon blue or Chymic, a small quantity at a lime, and run the goods 
till Ihe color pleases; arrange it so that the blueing will be added, at lhr«.o 
tiines, running the goods about twenty minutes, each lime. 

No. 90. Saxon Green, with Murio Sulphate of Tin. 

Six pounds yarn: Boil in fair water for one hour, two and a half pound* 
Wack-oak bark; then lake np the bark, and dissolve eight ounces alut» 
and four ounces crude tartar, and add to the dye, with eight ounces murie 
siilphate of tin; mix the dye wlII, and dip the goods. Have the dye bo« 
low ihe boiling point when the goods are dijiped, bring the dye to boil, and 
run the goods iu the dye thirty minutes; then take them up, and add tbe 
blueing or Chymic, (as in the last receipt,) and run the goods till the co- 
lor pleases. 

No. CI. Yellow, with Murio Sulphate of Tin, and BlachOah Bnrh. 

Four pounds yarn: Boil in fair water for one hour, one and a half 
pounds black-oak bark ground as for tanning; then lake np the hark and 
dissolve four ounces alum, and three ounces crude tartar, and add to tho 



29 

dye, wiilifivo ounces miirlo siilpiiuio of tin. Mix the dye well, dip and 
run (lie goods, till llie color pleuses. 

No. i}'3. Some remarlcs liave been made, on llic coloring properties of 
Black-C>iik Bdtk, lo wliich may b(! added ilial, in order to apply il most 
advauia},'eoi)sl y. in dyiny bright yellows, greens and orange colois, it sliould, 
be carelnlly selocied in liie woods, and taken ofl' those trees, thai alTord 
bark of the riclu-st yolldw c<dor, which is easily ascertained, by cutting 
tlirongh the bark. 'I'iie best time to lake it olT is in Mav. It should he 
cleared of all the dead pari, retaining for use that pait only, which is soft 
and growing. This shonld be put np, and carefnily prcjiecied from wet 
and dirt, until folly dry, and ihon reduced to tine powder, which is easily 
done, the inner bark being quite soft. 

Jii this Slate, by the aid of Murio Sulphate of Tin, Alum, and Tarta^ 
eveiy shade, from (hs richest and most beauiil'nl orange yellow, down to 
the clearesi and most delicate Lemon tinge, may be produced in their 
greatest possible dejjree of perfeciioii. 

No. i)3. But in order to obtain the colors, above described, f-'very thing 
must be right, noih.mg done on the sliares, the bark must be of the rigltt 
kind, and prepared in the proper way; the kettle, and every thin«j that 
touches the goods during the process oi' colouring, must be clean aa a aew 
piu, and the goods must be clean as a lady's wedding dress. 

No. 94. Deep Orange Yellow, tvilh Black-Oak Bark. 

Five pounds yarn: Fill the copper with fair water, and when it comes td 
boil, add fnurleen ounces black-oak bark prepared asdescrib»'d at No. 92, 
and bod fifieen minutes; take up the bark and dissolve four ounces alum, 
and four Ounces crude tartar, and add to t!^e dye, vi^iih isi.^c ounces murio 
•ul diaie of tin: mix them well with lite dye, then dip and run thegoodi 
with the reel, until the color pleases. 

No. 95. Light. Clear Yellow, with Black-Oak Bark. 

Five pounds of yarn: Boil in fair water, for fifteen miniiles, ten otinceS 
black oak bark; then take u|) the bark, and dissolve five onncesalum and 
five ounces cream of tartar, and add to the dye; ntix them well in the dye, 
dip the goods, and iiisj thein with the reel, until the color pleases. 

No. 9G. Madder Red, with Nitrate of Tin. 

Five pounds yarn: Fill the dye-kettle with fair wafer, to which add three 
pints wheal bran. Mix it well with the waier, and, before it boils, skim 
of the liraii; then dissolve half a pound alum and five ounces crude tar- 
tar, and add lo the dye, witii two and a half ounces tdtratc of (in; mit 
them well with the dye, cool the dye, if boiling, with a bucket of cold 
water, and dip the goods; run thera carefully with the reel, and raise the 



30 

keat; bring the dye to boil, continue this process of reeling the geod« 
slowly, ihrougli the dye, and boiling slowly for ihiee houig; then Inke up 
the goods, and air them; pack ihewi in a rloae heap, and let siand (orty- 
eight hours to sour; then ernpiy :lie kellle, and nil li;iir liili wiih fair water, 
to which add three pints wheal hran; rai.«e the lieat and proceed, as be- 
fore, to mix the bran and water together, and when it comes to boil, skita 
eff the bran; then fill up the kclile wiih water, raise the heal to about the 
scalding point, dip and run the goods three times ihicmgh tho bran water, 
take them up and air them, fill uj) the kettle and add one pound Madder, 
and let il stand at scalding heat one hour; then dip the goods and run thenri 
carefully, with the reel, one hour, with the heal increuaing, being careful 
that the dye does not boil; liien stop ihe fire, but continue to run th« 
goods fifteen tuinutes longer; then lake liiem up air and cool ;hem. — 
Shift the dyo from the kettle and fill with fair water, to which add bran, 
and proceed as before: and when the water is neaily to boiling heat, and 
the bran gkimed olT, add one and a half pounds madder, and regulate th« 
heat, so that the dye may remain a little above scalding heat, for forty 
minMles; tiien dip and run the goods one hour, raise llic heat and let the 
dye boil five minutes, ihen take up the goods, and wash them in strong 
soapsuds, and dry them as soon as possible. 

Tliis plan, for madder red, is sotnething more t.'oiiblesome than the com- 
mon jnethod; but those who wish to have fine colors, will be more thaa 
compensated for the extra labor, by the beauty of the color, which ia but 
little inferior to scarlet, and more permanent. 

No. 97, Lac Scarlet. Five Pounds Wool. 

Boil in fr.ir water, for fifieen minutes, twootincfs blnckoak bark; th«a 
add eleven and a hull' ounces lac dye, wiifi seven tjunces nitrate of tin, 
and three and a h»lf ounces cream ot tartar; boil and stir this mixture ten 
minutes, then stop liie boiling, by adding cold water: d'p and run lh« 
goods iiMlil the color pleases. Wiule the goods are waim rii>?e in water. 

No. \iH. Note: In all cases, liie lac must be reduced to a considerablt 
degree of fincueiss, by cutting or breaking, and well mixed in a stons crock 
or jar, with tiie nitrate of tin, that il iii:iy be disolved, which uiay be :iB- 
ceriaiued by rubbing it on vi piece of glass or white piper, atul before ad- 
ding it to the dye, thin the mixture, by siirrinjj it well with warm water. 

No. 91), Crimson, tcirh Lac. 

Five pounds of yarn: fil the dye kettle with fair water, and bring it t© 
boil; then add toihedye lea ounces be, prepared wiih !iv« ounces niirale 
of tin, as above directed, atid boil and mix ihem live mioiiies, ihen add three 
and a hall' ounces cream of tartar, and bod five miiiutea more; mix tlie dye 
well, and dip the goods; handle them regiilarly, reeliuj; and airing tliera, 
Kiitil the color suits; then take ihevxi up uud unse iu water. Nexiaiake a 



31 

slronjT sonp-siids, and handle ihein through if, as iiot as you can bear it to 
your hands; then washout tiie soap suds and dry it. 

No. 100. Orange, with Lac. 

Five pounds yarn.* fill the dye kettle with fair water, and hrin^; it to boil; 
add live ounces hi. icU oak hark, and hoi! lil'ieen minuies; take np the haik 
and add four and ;v iialf ouncs lac, pre[)ared with five ounces nilraie of lin- 
mix this well in ilu; dye, and add f(Mir and u haironncie^s creatn of tartar- 
boil a few niinnies.dip ilie good?-, and run ihem careiuily in the dye, until the 
colour suits; then rinse and dry them. 

No, 101. It is necessary, in all dying, to liave the goods perfectly clean. 
They musst not only he cleared of grease and filili of all kinds, but the 
8oap-snds must also he well rinsed out of thcrn, and especially, for liiose 
colours, thai depend on acid of any kind for their hrightness: such as raJs 
of tiW shnddB orange, crimaon, greens; and yelloii-s. Ahhough some of 
these colors may be inipioved, by taking ihem through a course of soap- 
suds after they are dyed, yet the same soap-suds, if applied at the com- 
moncemeni of the process, would injure the color, if the soap sods used 
to set a common madder red, wpre in the goods at the alnrning, liie alum 
might as well be omiiied, for the reason that, the ahim and soap would neu- 
tralize each other. For the same reason, hard water is uiifii for the red dye; 
the lime contained In it, produces the same had tll'ect, that is produced by 
soap-suds. 'i\i avoid this bad consequence, wheal bran is used, the lime 
unites with the mucilage, formed by (he bran, and when the heat rises to 
a certain point, it is raised to the sui face of the liquor, and skimmed off. 

No. 102. Bright red, and a yellow brown, are the only colours contained 
in madder. The red is ci.sily e.xiracted, by water, at scalding heat; wiiilsl it 
yields the brown cidour hut partially, until the dye is hruugni to !)oil: and 
although by boilirig mote color is ohtain<-d, pne pound goodMnaihler being 
Butiicieiit, in this way, to give iliree pounds yarn a pretty full color, yet ths 
objection of being a dull brown red, is sufficient reas^jui, wheie a bright 
colour is wanted, for using half a pound madder to each poui'd of goods, 
and avoid boiling, as directed iti the receipts for making madder red. 

No. 103. It is slated in the iniroductinn that, all color?, in which copperas 
isii.sf'd.may l)e dyed in Iron vessels, 'i'hese dyes. iiortev(M-, in wliidi oil 
•f vitriol, nitric acid or muriatic acid, is used, form an exception to this rule. 
Any of the [).-e[iarations of tin or indiijo, with those acids, would rusi the 
iron su much, as to spoil the dye and s.)ol the ^.oods. 

No. 104. Indigo Blue. 

Prepare « vat o.' six gallons; let it he snhslantiallr mar?e of v;or.J shout 
two feet in hei<;ht, and tupcriug towards the bottom; an iron hoopshouM 



be made (o fit inside; and pass down easily, within four inches of the bot- 
tom- Some nelvvDik should be slreciied oyer the hoop, and three cords 
attached to it, at ccpial distances from each other, aud ionif enojigh lo ex- 
tend IVom the topoliiie dye Isih, to wiiiiin four inches of tiie bottom. — 
The hoop is inieiiiled for a movable second bottom, in ibe dye lub; the 
network, sirecliod over if, is designed to prevent wool, yarn, or oiher goods, 
while coloring, from sinking to the bottom of ihe vai, and mixing wiih the 
Bedimeni; and ihe cords are lised for llie pnr|)nse of raising liie hoop out 
of the inb, when ii is necessary to' mix ihe dye, and beinj,' fastened also 
to three pir.s. near ihe lop of lii -■ lub, ihey prevent the hoop from sinking, 
within a less space, shin four inches of the bolionj. 

iYo. 105. To Set the Vnt. 

Pnl five gallons old chamberlye into the vat, lo whicli add half a pound 
good Indigo enclosed in a bag; iwo ounces jioiasii and iwo oiinres good 
madder; siir and mix all well logelhcr; let it stand iwenty-fonr hours, 
then add half a |)int wheat bran, and rnboul one fumiii of ihe Indigo inid 
thedye; mix ihe dve well, and let stand tweniylbur hours longer; by 
this liiiie the dye should be fit for coloiing, whicii is known by a lifb cop- 
per colored scum on liie top of ihe li(pior, a heavy fioili of a beautiful 
purple color when the dye is slroiigly siiiicfl; tiie dye having a fin*' yidlow 
green color, when dropp-ing I'lorn the end of a slick, held between you and 
the li'-fiit. If a sampli." he dipped a sborl linio in the dye, il should coma 
out a line greti), and change lo blue, after a few minutes exposure loths 
air. 

No. lOG. When the dye presents all these signs, the dyeing may b« 
commeticed. But if the vat has not yet come to work, stir well every 
three hotirs, and keep the val closely covered at all times, exce{>i whea 
yo5i_areai work with '.he dye. Attend il in this way, uniil ibe val come* 
fully 10 the des<:iipiio;i given above. 

Put down the hoo[> aitd dip ihe wool; let il remain five or six hours; 
then lake it out, and as this is done, wring out the dye iuio the val, and 
open out llie wool lo air; then take up tlie hoop, and mix iij) the dye, 
thorongiily, and let it stand, at least one hour, befo'e the wool is returned 
to the dye; proceed in ibis way, and you cannot fail to have a fine blue. 

No. 107. When the dye becomes weak, renew it Iry rubbing out mora 
Indigo, and adijinga liitie bran and madder; and if ii colors \v\y slowly, 
put op two galbms good wood ashes, wiiii iwo fjuaris sione lime, apply a3 
much ch;itniierlye to lire ashes, as will run oft' two gallons of ly«, mix 
one qiiari of liiis lye, when you rub out the Indigo, and mix all well 
togetiitjr. 

No. 108. Eo careful) lo disconiinue the coloring, at any '.iure that the 
dye fails lo cvhibii the signs, of being in good order, as given above. — 

c 



33 

The principle reason that good blues are not alwaj'S obtained in tbis kind 
of vai is, that the coloring is frequently continued, when the Indigo is 
floating undissolved in the dye. When this is the case, the wool instead 
of being green as it conies from the dye, is almost as blue as when it was 
put in; the Indigo, adhering to the wool in the state of a fine paste, is re- 
moved almost entirely, the first time that so.ip and water are applied to it, 
and the vat is rendered wortbless, until renewed again, by the addition 
of more Indigo. 

No. 109. Another cause of faihite is, crowding too much wool in the 
dye, at the same time. The idea iliat, an ounce of Indigo will produce 
more color, if used in two gallons of dye, than in five, is erroneous. The 
Indigo is as readily dissolved in the one case as in the other; the wool, if 
well dyed in two gallons, must be divided into seven lots, and the work is 
done to disadvantage; or if colored at once, the dye will be crowded to 
excess, and you will fail in making a good color, and spoil the dye. But 
in the case of five gallons, the wool is diped at once, and having room 
endugh, the color will be uniform, obtained in less time, and a better blue. 

No. 710. Another cause of indifFerent colors. There is no blue dye, 
in which the Indigo is all perfectly dissolved at the same time, the parti- 
cles of Indigo, that remain undissolved, will settle to the bottom, if time 
be given for that purpose; if not they remain suspended in the dye. lu 
either case, when the wool is dipped these undissolved particles of Indi- 
go, adhere to, and are taken out, with it, and lost entirely; and what is 
w^orse, it adheres to every thing, that is so unfortunate .as to come in con- 
tact with the wool, until it is washed. 

This evil is altogether remidied, by letting the dye stand to settle, about 
one hour, each time it is mixed; and then letting down the hoop, or second 
bottom, before the wool is returned to the dye. 

Frequently the dye fails, in consequence of bad Indigo; but this is 
no reason why the color should not be good. The remedy for too light a 
color is found in using better Indigo. There is no reason for thi'owing 
out the dye, or leaving the color unfinished. 

This kind of blue vat would impart a good blue to wool, or yarn, in less 
time than it commonly does, if it could be kept about milk v/arm. For this 
reason, it should he used only in the warm season of the year, and if set 
nigh to a wall, that faces the sun at twelve o'clock, the heat will be con- 
eiderably increased. 

The size of the vat. is always regulated, by the quantity of goods to be 
coloured. There is a great disadvantage in using one too small: the ex- 
pense of a vat, to hold ten gallons, and one that holds but three, is about 
the same, wliiist it will be found that, ten pounds of wool can be dyed 
with less labor and less cost in a vat that holds fifteen gallons, than in one 
that holds but five; and v/hen done is better in color, and io every way 
else. If there were no other reason for this, than being accomplished in 
less than half the time required, to make the color in the small vat, it would 
be a sufficient one. 

In case the pearlash should not be at hand, for setting, and recruiting, 
the dye, a lew quarts good lye will answer the same purpose; indeed, so 
simple is this kind of blue dye, that a good color can be made, by rubbing 



. 34 

*ut the indigo with the chainberlye, and letting it stand a proper length of 
ime, to dissolve. No person, however, unacquainted as they may be with 
fhe art of coloring, can fail with this dye, if the foregoing directions beat- 
tended to. 

In conclusion, a few remarks may be necessary. If the preceding re- 
ceipts had been prepared for the exclusive use of practitioners, the Author 
would have expected to bn understood, with much less labor. 

Being designed especially, for the benefit of those, who are unacquaint- 
ed, in a considerable degree, with the art of coloring, plainness has been 
studied throughout. In making colors, airing the goods is an indispensa- 
ble part of the process. None but those experienced in dying, are appri- 
^d of the effect produced by the air, on colors while in the process of 
dying. This is all the appology the Author offers for recurring to this ne- 
cessary partof the process, in each of the receipts. 

In a few cases, the goods are directed, (after being cooled) to be packed 
up closely, and remain so for a given length of time. This is done, in 
order that the acids, in which they have been immersed, may penetrate 
more fully into the pores of the wooll, and become incorporated with 
the body of the goods. 

All the receipts are adapted to five pounds of goods, on the suppositioa 
that, this arrangement was as good as any that could be made; for any oth- 
er qantity of goods, the necessary calculation is easily made. 

The rinsing box is made by fitting up a box, abouz two leet in length 
fourteen inches in breadth the same in height, and open at top. To be wa- 
ter tight is no disadvantage. MarkoneendNo. 1, and theotherNo. 2;nail 
across piece in the bottom, at No. 1, four inches in bredth, dress a board t© 
fit inside of -end No. 2, nail a ledge one inch square on the side, and even 
with the edge of this boaard; leave it eleven inches in bredth, then nail it 
fast, level with the top of the box, and three inches inside of end No. 2, 
with the ledge fronting the cross piece at No. 1. Then fit in half inch 
equare strips, resting one end of them on the cross piece, at No. 1, and th» 
other, on the square ledge of end board at No. 2; nail them down, leaving 
a space of one fourth of an inch, between each strip: Cutasixinch square 
hole, through the outside end at No. 2, to which attach, on the inside, a 
gate to fit closely. This second bottom answers the purpose of astrainer, 
or sive, through which the vv^ater passes out freely, while the wool is 
retained. 

If you haveaspring run, or any other stream of water, in which a spout 
can be so arranged that, there may be a few feet of fall, where the water 
leaves it, your washing of wool can be better done, and with less labour, 
than without this convenience. tSet your kettle, as night to thei watera* 
you can; fillit with water, and chamberlye, to within a few inches of th« 
top, in the proportion of two parts of the former, and one of the latter;^ 
heat so that, you can just bear the hand in the liquor, without being scal- 
ded; put in the wool, and let it remain until the dirt, and animal oil, sepa- 
rate freely from it, which can be ascertained, at any tim.e, by taking up a 
sample of the wool, and wringing it tightly. If the wool be in order for 
jrJEsing, the filth vill runoff easily, leaving the ^ool white; or trj tii« »w»- 



35 

pie in cold water. If the filth leaves it by being slightly rinsed, leaving 
the wool perfectly white and open, take it up, and put another lot of wool 
in the keitle; and while it remains in the hot liquor, move the basket of 
wool, just taken up, to the rinsing box; throw in the proper quantity, let 
on the water, and with a stick stir the wool, in the box; then draw the gat© 
at No. 2, when the water is run off close it again, and let the water on the 
wool, stirring as before. Continue this process, until the wool be perfect- 
ly clean, being mindful, nut to let the lot, in tlie kettle, remain there too 
long, or the heat to come to the scalding point. Proccd with the second 
lot, as in the first case, and as the liquor, in the kettle, is reduced, fill up 
again with chamberlye, and water in the same proportions as at first. 

In this way, a large amount of wool can be well washed, in a few hours. 
If limestone water be used, it may be necessary to add, to the mixture in 
the kettle, a few quarts of good ley; soap is sometimes used for this purpose 
but is not good — the ley is preferable, as it contains no grease. 

Unless the chamberlye has, at least, six months age, it will bo necessary 
to^usoa larger proportion of it, than one third. When the woo! is put into 
the kettle, it must be carefully mixed with the liquor, that it may penetrate 
all parts of the wool equally; and for the same reason, care must be taken, 
not to put too much in at once. After the wool has been carefully mixed, 
in the kettle, alt that is necessary is, to take it up at the proper time, and 
riHse it in clean water. Where water is not convenient, it would be 
better to move the wool, and washing utensils, a mile, than to be without 
the use of a spout, as before described. When the wool is washed, it 
should be dried, as soon as possible; and while this is doing, care should 
be taken to protect it from rain, and heavy dews. Wool is better lying iu 
a heap, though wet, than exposed to heavy dews or rain: both have a ten- 
dency to render it harsh. 

There are several other means of washing wool, and most of them do 
more harm than good. Between hot soap suds, rubbing, and tramping the 
wool, it is frequently spoiled, or left in such a condiiion that, neither the 
carding, spinning, or weaving, can be well done; and after the job has cost 
more, every way, than was necessary, it does not answer the purpose, for 
which it was intended: — and all this loss, and disadvantage, growing out 
of the bad handling the wool got, in washing and drying. 

In sho.t, the washing of wool is, at the ibundation of our manufactur- 
ing; and after the breed of sheep, or quality of wool we use, is next in 
importance. 

This niethod of washing wool, ought to have preference. over those, in 
common urie,if it was for no other reason, than the ease with which wool 
is prepared for carding, when washed in tbis way, compared with the dif- 
ficulty with v/hich wool is picked, after being washed with ley or soap. 

There is another disadvantage in washing wool indifferently, of which 
few persons appear to be aware. Fine wool contains from twenty-five, to 
fifty, per cent, of animal oil, and other matter, of which it must be dives- 
led, before it is fit for clothing. 

Amongst the beveral processes, through which wool passes, from the 
flseco to the finished cloth, there is none so suitable for cleaning it of all 
the filth, as the first washing, after coming ofi the sheep. Through ne- 
glect in this operation, thousands of packages of wool are annually carded 
it our country, with the washing bo caielessly did, that from fifteaa, !♦ 



. 36 

twenty, percent, of the weight of the package, is made up of foreign mat- 
ter. One of the consequences is that, the cost of carding is increased, 
from seven, to live, percent, to those who have it done; for the plain rea- 
son that, they pay for carding filth instead of wool. Another consequence 
is that the carder is compelled to spend one third more time, in doing the 
work, than would have been necessary, if the wool had been in good or- 
der; and still the spinner has, perhaps, just cause to complain. There are 
many, who succeed in washing their vool clean, with lye or soap; and 
yet are loosers. There are a brittleness and harshness imparted to wool, 
by this kind of washing, that is an injury in carding, spinning, and weav- 
ing If the washing be done with old chamberlye, the wool is open and 
elastic, easily picked, and carded; and with good carding, there must be 
very bad management in spinning, or the yarn will be good. 

The weaver then has no difficulty, in putting up the work, as it should 
be in the loom. Indeed, if thisfirst operation in manufacturing, be proper- 
ly conducted, one half of the difficulty, in making a good job, of all the 
rest, is overcome, and tliis should be sufficient inducement, to every per- 
son manufacturing I'or their own use, to adopt the best plan for washing 
their wool; every part of tfie work afterwards is much easier done; and 
the web, when iinished, will have cost less, in both money and labour, 
whilst, at thesametime, it will be more valuable. 

If the coloring be doue in the wool, it is yet more important that lye or 
soap, ehould not be used in washing. Neither of those articles can be used, 
in this way, without imparting an injurious harshness to the wool, which 
is increased by coloring, to such a degree, as to make itdoubtfuf whether, 
the carding, and si, inning, could be well done. 

The coarser qualities of wool, are commonly manufactured, without any 
other washing than simply in water. In cases where the colors are to be 
made in the wool, it is important that, the wool should be well washed; 
It ts impossible to make colors, either bright or fast, unless the pores of the 
wool be cleared of all filth and oil. 

This is one reason that, the blue vat, so frequently disappoints the ex- 
pectations of those, who are dying blue; the dye is always strong enough 
to extract whatever oil, or grease that may be contained in the goods; but 
not always strong enough to perform this office, and the one for which it 
was intended. 

ITIIxIis.^ of €©l0Hfi'§. 

Dark Steel mix, is composed of nine pounds black, and one white 
■wool. 

Light Steel mix, two parts black, and one of white. 

Gray is made, by mixing eaqual parts of black, and white wool. 

Light Gray, two parts white, and one of black. 

Dark blue mix, two parts blue, and one of white. 

Middle l)Iue mix, equal parts of blue and v,iiite. 

Light blue mix, two parts white and one of blue. 

A great variety of different shades, of mixed colors, may be obtained, by 
changing the proportions, and colours used. 

A very gooil color is made, by mixing equal parts of blue, black, and 
white; and a color equally good, by mixing one pound blue, one of bla «k, 



a/ • 

and two pounds white; and if the colors be dop.p and full, a good mix is 
made, with one pound black, one of blue and four of white. 
fr Excellent colors are also made, by different combinations of black, brown, 
and blue. For instance, color a lot of wool brown, according to receipt 
No. 14; then take half this lot, and dye it black as directed, in receipt No. 
3; dye another lot blue, as directed in receipt No. 105; mix these in equal 
proportions, and you will have a beautifu-l permanent color. Or make the 
brown, and black, as above directed, and mix equal parts of black, white, 
and brown. Good colors are also made by mixing blue, and brown, e([\is.l 
parts of each, and black and brown, in the same way. 

The limits prescribed to this work, do not permit the author, to enter, 
more fully upon tho mixing of colors; though much more might be said, 
the good sense of those, who are interested, will, no doubt, supply this de- 
fect. 

A few remarks have already been made, on tho advantages of making 
colors in the wool, over that of dying in the web, to which many more 
might be added. Indeed, so uncondirionally has public opinion, and expe- 
rience, decided on this subject, that, all mantifactureri?, of woollen cloths, 
are compelled to lurnisii conclusive evidence, that their cloths are dyed in 
the wool, or have them remain on hand unbaught. 

This is one reason that, all broadcloths are finished with listings, or sel- 
vages, of different colors from those of the cloth. 

No person, who makes a business of buying cloths to sell again, v/ould 
purchase broadcloths dyed in the web, if he could get tb.ora at half the 
cost of those dyed in the wool, unless he intended to do an itinerating bu- 
siness; for the reason that, his customers would leave bim, as soon as they 
discovered the bad quality of his goods. If an article besouniversally con- 
demned for its bad qualities, we are certainly furnished with suilicientrea- 
6ons, for not making the same article, for our own use; and that too, at 
more cost than would furnish an article of good quality, from the same ma- 
terials. 

But to be more particular: suppose, for example, that tv/enty pounds of 
wool be manufactured into cloth, and sent to the fulling miil and dyed in 
the web, asnuff-brown; if finished in the best style, the fuller's bill will 
ba twenty-five cents, per yard, for twenty-two or three yards. If dyed in 
the wool at home, and fulled and finished in the same style, the fuller's bill 
will be twelve and a half cents per yard, leaving two dollars and seventy- 
five cents, for the coloring. Turn to receipt No. 5, and it will be found 
that, the cost of dye-drugs, for twenty pounds of wool, cannot exceed se- 
venty-five cents, leaving two dollars for the labour in this case; atid a co- 
lor that cannot be surpassed for good qualities by any in this class. Eut 
when the difference in utility is considered, there is no comparrison: in tlie 
one case, the wool is oiled shortly after it is dyed, to prepare it for carding, 
and remains so until cleansed by the fuller in washing. The soap and 
water, that are necessary to remove the grease, loosen and carry off every 
other impurity with them, and the v.'ool is left soft and elastic, as when 
growing on the sheep's back. The co-lor once permanently fixed in the 
pores of the wool, and uniform through the whole body of the cloth, it 
must continue the same while the cloth lasts. 

But on the other hand, the cloth being dyed after it is fulled, it is not 
possible for the color to penetrate the centre of the cloth, as fully as the sur- 



» * 88 

face; and is deposited more in the pores of the cloth, than in the pores of 
the wooT; and what is still worse, is perhaps only washed in cold water, 
after the coloring is done. It is impossible for a garment, made of such 
cloth, to be worn any length of tinie, and continue to be uniform in color, 
for the plainest of all reasons — tlie wear is unequal, reducing some parts 
of the'garnient faster than others, and as the surface approaches the cen- 
tre of the cloth, by wear it is fouiid to be light in color, while those parts of 
the garment that are subjected to less wear and exposure, perliaps become 
darker, for a time, from the action of the air. 

But these are not the only objections to colors dyed in the web. ■ The 
cloth will not wear as long as when dyed in theM^ool. No person, acquain- 
ted with this subject, need be informed that, copperas, as well as blue vitriol, 
posesses strong corrosive properties, in consequence of which, they tend 
always to impart harshness and brittleness to goods, and this injurious 
tendency must either be counteracted, by neutralizing their corosive pro- 
perties, or incur inconvenience and loss. 

If any person has doubts, on tbis subject, they can have sensible dem- 
onstration of the fact above stated, by simply bathing their hands in a so- 
lution of either of those articles: and the remedy for the corosive liarshness , 
and contraction, imparted to the skin, by the above experiment, is so sim- 
ple and natural that, any person would apply it, at first thought, — oil, soap, 
and water, just what has been recommended, to counteract the same evil in 
jiiauufacturing. Another consideration, of great importance in the wear 
of woollen cloth, in consequence of the harshness just alluded to the cloth, 
is more open in texture, than it should be; the dress on the face side, after 
being in use a short time, instead of lying smoothly, as it comes irom the 
press, rises up arui curls about, the points of the wool standing in every 
direction; — precisely like the liair on ahidebound horse. The consequence 
is, there is no possibility of keeping such aga^-mlnt clean; the dust pene- 
trates, constantly, into the body of the c!oth,j'and increases the harshness, 
brittleness, and wear, until the garment becomes uncomfortable, and is 
ihrown aside as useless, the color faded, and the cloth rotten before it 
should have been more than half worn out^. 

Cloth, dyed. in the wool must, in the natejji'g^'of the case, pass through 
BU(yh a coui'se, in manufacturing, as will talcpoff the harshness imparted 
to the goods, in Coloring, by neutruUzing ihe corrosive properties of the dye 
drugs. The clotli. then, acquires the proper body, in fuil^ig is left close 
and compact in texture, the wool, being soft and elastic, is prepared to re- 
ceive the proper finish, of v/hich a better idea cannot be given, than the 
coat on a slick horse. This servos as a covering to the body pf the cloth, 
and protects it from being penetruted and filled with dust, and the beauty 
and durability of the article depend, in a considerable degree, on the 
length of time this covering continues, in the position given it, by the 
clothier. And whil^ it is a notorious fact that, cloth dyed in the web re- 
tains, in many cases, the finish but little longer, than the spunging opera- 
tion at the tailors shop. It is also equally evident, from experience that, 
cioth dyed in the wool retains, in many instances, the beauty of its finish, 
though frequently washed until itis entirely worn off. On the whole, the 
fact is evident, from reason and experience that there cannot be less than 
twenty-five per cent difference, between the two articles in favor of col- 
oring in the wool, amounting in the lot taken, for example, to eleven del- 



89 

lars and and twelve and a half cents. The cloth is set down at one dollar 
per yard, the tailor's bill at fifteen dollars, for making five coats, and ihs 
trimings at one dollar and fifty cents each. The whole calculation is foun- 
ded on the doctrine that, the coats, in the one case, will yield one-fourth 
less actual service, than in the other; a fact that will be established in ev- 
ry case, Avhere the test of fair experiment is brought to cast her light on 
the subject. This is the only reason why our domestic mixed cloths, 
whether made in whole or in part of wool, out wears any others. The 
wear of our mixed blue cloths, sattinetts, and lindseys, is almost prover- 
bial; and so far as mixtures of blue and brown have been tried, they have 
been found equally good; and the same will be said of all the rest, so soon as 
tixperience has fairly tested their value. All that has been said, in refer- 
ence to colors dyed in the wool, applies, with strict propriety, to this class 
of cloths; and the whole secret of their extra durability is ff und, in the 
fact that, oiling, fulling, and washing, neutralize the corrosive tendency 
of the dye drugs, used in their manufacture. 

^repaa'fiBBg ^Vool for Caffdloig. 

On the subject of carding, little can be said, as the author does not de- 
sign to instruct carders, but rather to give such directions to those having 
the work done, as may promote their interests. 

The first consideration is, to have the wool in good order; and nothing 
tends more directly towards this desirable object, than careful washing. 
Wool is frequently so much injured in washing that, the carding cannot be 
well done; and this is almost invariably the case when ley or soap is used. 
Sometimes the wool is wet in'a tub, with soap suds or weak ley, and rub- 
bed or tramped, in order to loosen the filth; the consequence is^ the wool 
is ruined. An operation of this kind, continued for two minutes, will spoil 
the best lot of wool. 

It often occurs that, good wool contains considerable of second growth, 
which is made to adhere to the wool around it, and felted so closely togeth- 
er, by the above treatment, that, in carding, it can neither be separated 
i'roui the v/ool, to which i,t is attached, or carded into good rolls, but re- 
mains in the work, in the form of small lumps of very short uncarded wool, 
and is considerable injury in spinning. 

On this account, if no other, the method heretofore recom.mended ought 
to have prefereftee,for the reason that, it has less tendency to full the wool, 
than any other, and leaves it so open and lively that, the second growth 
«nd second clipping, do but little injury in carding or spinning. 

Another advantage, in carding from this kind of washing, is — there is 
more or less wool, in every fieece, injured by filth and and exposure to the 
weather, and appears dead, or to have lost its elastic property. This meth- 
od of washing removes the filth, entirely, and restores the strength and 
elasticity of the wool, in a much greater degree, than any other known to 
the author. It also leaves the wool so open, and lively, that the labor of 
picking is reduced, more than one half. And if, in saving time, an equal 
advantage is not realized by the carder, and spinner, one of more im])or- 
tance is secured to the owner, by thesuperior quality of the rolls and yarn. 

The washing being rightly done, and the wool cleared by picking ;of 
burrs, and other substances that would injure the machinery in carding, 
the rest remains with the carder. 



40 

An opinion that, wool is frequently too much cut or shortened in cardingt 
is erroneous. In all cases, where the wool is intended for fulled cloth, if 
the carding could be done in such a way that, no fibre in the package would 
excedd an iz^ch in length, it would be all the better; — the cloth would 
be better in every respect, and more especially so, in all cases of long wool. 
— If any doubts be entertained on this subject, they may be removed by 
unraveling a bit of good cloth, and by this easy experiment it will be found 
that, the wool had been very much shortened by carding. 

Gnarling the wool, in carding, is a great injury, and is commonly char- 
ged to account of too much carding; but nothing can be further from the 
•fact. — Ead machinery, or what is about the same thing, machinery in bad 
order, or the careless manner in which the unichinery is attended, are tho 
true causes, with those already noticed, in preparing the wool, of all the 
vexatio}! and losg, annually intiicted on the public by wool, being thus in- 
jured, in carding. — And the proper remedy, in every case of the kind, is 
to witlihold all patronage from those, \vho thus prove themselves unworthy, 
of this kind of public trust. And indeed this 'corrective is reasonable, in 
every point of view, if the- expense incurred in the purchase and fitting 
up of good macliiiiery, and the toil of careful attention to business, reap no 
better reward, than is bestowed on the parsimonious, and negligent in busi- 
ness, and we must take the coneequences of a bad choice, if it should be a 
lot of badly carded wool. The great difficulty in getting wool of difi'erent 
colors, properly mixed in carding, has prevented, to a considerable extent, 
the manufacture of mixed cloths, and must continue to injure this useful 
branch of jiome industry, until the picking machine is brought more gener- 
ally into use. By the aid of this useful and cheap machine, all difficulty in 
mixing different colors, is easily overcome; and, foi several purposes, this 
machine is so convenient and useful that, no carding roomshould be with- 
out one. \V<xol is not only better prepared for carding, by being passed a 
few times carelVilly through a good picking machine, but all the inconve- 
nience of working several kinds of wool together, is avoided. — Although 
in the manufacture of fulled cloth, of all descriptions, different grades 
ought not to be mixed together, as a few pounds of coarse would be an in- 
jury to a large lot of a better quality, yet different kinds of wool, if equal 
In fineness, may, in many instances, be advantageously carded together, 
and coarse woo! and fine, for many other purposes, may be usefully employ- 
ed together, liut in ail ca.'^es, of this kind, a good picking machine is in- 
dispensible. 

Spinning is an important branch in the manufacture of woollen goods. 
Their beauty and durability depend, in a considerable degree, on the man- 
ner in which this part of the work is performed. In all spinning, intended 
for fulled cloth, the yarn ought to have twist enough to weave well, and 
no more. Any thing, more than this, is not only unnecessary labour, but 
an injury. It prevents the cloth from, acquiring that compact and firm tex- 
ture, in fulling, that is essential, in order to a good piece o) cloth and a 
handsome finish. But the opposite extreme is attended with worse conse- 
quences, and leaves the thread too soft and weak, to stand the wear of wea- 
ving; a matter of great importance in the manufacture of woollen cloth. — 



41 

An opinion that, the chain ought to be /mrd twisted, and the filling soft, ]« 
founded on a wrong view of the su bjcct, as will appear when fulling comes 
to be treated of. It wmII be readily admited that, cloth made in this way, 
wnll receive a good finish, with less labour, than when the chain and filling 
iire twisted alike; but good reasons can be given, notwithstanding, why 
it ought to be avoided by all, who are manufacturing for their own use. 
A more correct opinion prevails, pretty generally, and is founded on expe- 
rience that, the work as it comes from the weaver, should be square; viz, 
have as much filling as chain, in each square yard, for tlie very good rea- 
son that, the bestwearing fiannel is woven in this way. — And for the same 
reason it will be found, that cloth, when finished, ought to be square also, 
which is impossible, where the dift'erence, before spoken of is made in 
spinning. But whatever difference, either in chain or filling may be 
thought best, in the way of twist, it should be equal in all parts of the web. 
If hard and slack twisted yarn be striped together, in a piece of cloth, it 
will be found to shrink, unequally, in fulling; the soft twist will be narrow 
and the hard twist wide, and the cloth will be puckered and spoiled. The 
degree of fineness, givehto the goods by spinning must be lelt to the taste 
of those in charge of the work. The beauty and utility of the clcth, de- 
pend, in a greater degree, on the quality of the wool, and the perfection 
given to each particular process, in the progress of the work; beginmg 
Avith the fleece, and ending with the finished cloth, than on the fineness of 
the thread, of which it is composed. For Satinetts, the wool should be 
spun fine, and with just enough of twist, to follow the shuttle in weaving. 
This will enable the weaver to put the v.'^ork well together in the loom, 
and tlie value of the article depends, very much, on the manner in which 
this duty has been performed. 

Spinning for Lindseys, to be fulled for men's wear ought, also, to be 
softly twisted; and in no case, afiner thread than ten cuts, to the pound. 
Flannels, to be colored in the yarn, should be spun with a firm well twis- 
ted thread, otherwise the washing and dying will leave the yarn too opeii 
and weak, to weavu well. 

Blanketing should be spun coarse, about nine cuts to the pound, and 
twisted enough to wear v/e!l, and no more. 



Amongst the several processes, by which wool is converted into cloth, 
of the various kinds that minister to our comibrt, or convenience, it may 
be said with propriety that, weaving ranks with the most important. The 
others are necessary for the purposes, ibr which they are intended; but in 
each case, the office, performed by the weaver, renders them valuable or 
otherwise, in proportion to the degree of perfection, at which he arrives 
with his task. 

And this is literally true, in alUveaving, designed for the lulling mill. — 
The imperfections and faults, in weaving, may be covered to some extent 
by the fuller, but they cannot be removed. If woven too thin, the cloth 
when finished, will be deficient, either in body or in breadth; and if wov- 
en unequally, the fulliug increases the evil, the cloth will be puckered, and 
can neither be finished, made up or worn with any degree of decency. 



• 42 

All weaving, intended for fulled cloth, should be uniform, in thickness, 
from end to end of the web, and as nigh square as possible, having as 
much filling as warp in each square yard; and supposing the yarn twelve 
or fourteen cuts to the pound, it should be woven in a six hundred reed, 
and geers, the cloth, when v/oven, being forty-four inches in breadth. 

For Lindseys to be fulled, the warp should, in no case, be finer than No. 
9. No. H cotton yarn is better, the filling soft twist, and not finer than ten 
cuts to the pound, of which five cuts should be woven into each yard, the 
cloth should be forty-four inches in breadth, and uniform, in thickness, 
fjiroughout the vv^eb. 

The breadth that flannels are woven, is not so particular, as they un- 
dergo no shrinkage in fulling. They should in all cases, except for linings 
and inside clothing, be woven closely, as the beauty and durability of this 
excellent article of dress, depend, in a great degree, on being well put 
together in the Ipom. 

Satinetts should not be woven on a coarser warp, than No. 16, No. 18, 
to 22 is preferable; the filling sliould be fine and softly twisted, of wiiich, 
from ten, to fourteen ounces, should be woven into each yard. As tho 
shrinkage in lindseys and satinettes, in fulling, is all breadthwise.it is very 
iinportant that, the weaving should be uniform as possible. 

There is no part of the work, that requires more care, or honest faith- 
fulness, than the fulling and finishing of country clotli. A small neglect 
or omission, in any part of the work, is always attended with considerabls 
loss, and inconvenience to the owner. If the clolh be neglected in ths 
mill, v.hen first put to work, the consequence will be that, in thousands 
af places, the folds of cloth are fulled together, and it acquires a rough, 
creased, appearance, that is very injuiioiis, both to the appearance, and 
usefulness of the clolh. Frequently, the cloth is fulled in (he grease, aa 
it is called; viz, the grease and filth are not washed out of the goods, 
until the thickening process is completed. In this way, the work is always 
badly done, the cloth is never so firm, compact, and uniform, in texture, 
as it should be, and what is worse, is not clean. And to increase the dif- 
ficulty, the coloring is yet to be done; the dye, uniting with the grease, 
and animal oil remaining in the goods, forms a resinous substance, distri- 
buted through the whole body of the cloth. 

A garment of such cloth, is stiff, cold, and uncomfortable in winter; — 
and in summer, or in a warm room, is disagreeable, in consequence of the 
offensive smell emitted fiom it. Dust and dirt adhere to it, and become 
united with the glutinous impurities left in the goods, by the fuller, until 
the garment becomes so disagreeable, and uncomfortable, that it is thrown 
aside as worthless, before it should iiave been more than half worn. 

On the whole, fulling cloth in the grease, is such a bad practice that, 
those who get their work done, in this way, are always foosers, to more 
«ban double the amount of the fuller's bill ; — and the imposition is so gross 
and palpable, that it cannot stand a moment's inspection. 



4S 

Tlioro is not a good housewife in our country, but would dismiss her 
•washei-woman, immediately, if, in her line of business, she attempted an 
imposition of this kind. — She is expected to take the clothing through 
two courses of washing, and then through a carefull rinsing. While the 
fuller for the paltry consideration of a cent less per yard, in bis bill, is 
})ermitted to practice an imposition of the same kind, thai deprives us of 
the value of our labour, and the comfort of our clothing. 

In fulling cloths, satinetts, and lindrieys. the first thing to be done, after 
carefully hurling them, should be to clear them carefully of the filth and 
grease. Old cliambcrlye is the best, and cheapest article, that can 1)8 
us«d for this purpose; and if soft soap be added, it should be of the besi 
quality, and have,' at least, one year's age. 

The cloths should then be dried and carefully burled again, removing 
all the knots, and other defects that v/ould injure the finishing. They 
should then be taken through a second course of fulling, with good hard 
soap, that has been well made, and properly cleared of lye. By this pro- 
cess, we accomplish several valuable purposes; by washing, in the flannel, 
we succeed easily and certainly in getting the goods clean — and being 
clean, the wool unites, in the second process, closely and uniformly togetb- 
er, forming that compact and firm texture, that is essential to all well ful- 
led, and well finished cloth. 

When cloth has been well milled and finished, in a proper manner, it 
mW be soft and firm; being shorn even, it will present a short thick knap, 
which lies smooth and regular in one direction. By drawing the hand 
over the cloth, in the way t!ie knap inclines, it well feel slick and smooth; 
by moving the hand m the opposite direction the knap will feel rougli and 
prickly. If the cloth will bear this inspection, you may conclude the fin* 
jshing is right; but if the cloth be hard and stiff, if the knap be irregular, 
and the face of the cloth rough, the workman has not performed his duly, 
but has endeavoured to hide his neglect or failure, by iiard pressing. The 
press on cloth is of little importance. It should be so dressed as to vveaj 
as neatly without, as with pressing, the only reason that thick cloths are 
pressed is, to settle the bodies of the wool, and make the threads unifortn- 
ly smooth and compact. 

. A orreat proportion of the people, being \inacqnainled with the clothier's 
' and dyer's art, are generally satisfied, if their cloth present a flasiiy and 

fanciful color, and come siiff from the press; but the stiifness which the 

cioth has acquired, from a hot and close press, is designed merely to con- 
t ceal the faults of the finishing and it will be found, on wearing such cloths 

that, the color will soon fade and the cloth become rough and appear coarse; 

which, if the goods had been well colored and drps»«d. would have wp'R 

smooth, as long as the garment lasted. 



44 
l¥a§hhigr Yarn. 

^.iis is best done in a mixture of old chamberlye and water, one-third 
of tiie former and two-lhirds of the Jailer, in sufficient quantity to im- 
merse the y:irn without crowding, and as hoi as the hand can bear. In this 
mixture immerse the goods, and let (hem remain wilhout any handling 
whatever, until the grease and filth will rinse out easily; then take up the 
yarn and ring it, over the tub, as dry as possible; then rinse clean, in cold 
water. If the chambeiiye be not old, it may be necessary to mix it half 
and half with the water, and perhaps to add. soap; but all rubbing and 
stripping should be avoided. In this way yarn can be washed perfectly 
clean, without fulling it together in the least — a matter of iniponance, if 
the yarn be to be colored. In the common way of washing yarn, it is 
frequently fulled together, to such a degree that, neither the madder or 
blue dye can penetrate the inner part of the skein, so as to make a uni- 
form color. 

©ryhig: Wool. 

This ought to be done, if possible, in the shade. It will be found that, 
wool protected, whilst drying, from rain, dews, and sunshine, will feel 
much softer and finer than if e.xposed to the weather; but if the drying 
cannot be done indoors, in reasonable time, it is better to spread it in the 
open air, than to let it remain long wet, as this always renders it harsh 
and brittle. 

Nearly all the preceding receipts, except those for reds, greens, or- 
anges, crimsons, and yellows, are made out for^ve pounds of wool; but 
by using one fourth less dye-drugs, will be found to answer the purpose 
equally as well, for five pounds of cloth, flannel, or yarn. 

Indigo ISSiie, oia. €ottos& or I.<5iicii. 

Grind half a pound good Indigo, very fine, and mix it well with half a 
gallon strong ley: after standing twelve hours, fill the blue vat with clean 
water, within a few inches of the top — rain water is best, to which add 
three pounds good unslacked lime, have one pound copperas dissolved, 
and add with the lime; then add the Indigo and stir the whole well to- 
gether, and cover the vat closely. In four hours stir the dye well again, 
and continue to mix and stir up the dye, thoroughly, four or five times a 
day, keeping it closely covered at all other times, until it be fit for col- 
oring. 

When this is the case, a fine copper colored scum covers the surface of 
the dye, a heavy flurry or froth of a deep blue rises to the top, when tha 
dye is stirred, and the dye is a beautiful yellow green when dropping be- 
tween you and the light. When the dye presents these appearances, the 
coloring may bo commenced. 



45 

Sometimes this dye is fit for use in a few hours; at other times, it is 
se.yeral days coining to work. This dilTerence is owing to tiie weather, the 
quality of the Indigo, wafer, or lime. But in ail cases, the dye will come 
right sooner or later, if attended to according to the above directions. 

The Vat. 

This should be made on the plan recommended at page thirty one, 
omitting the second bottom, and should be of suflicient hoiglit, to admit 
the yarn to hang by one end of the skein, at the top of the vat, without 
reaching the butiora by six inches. A ledge should be attached inside 
the vat, and near the surface of the dye, on which to suspend the yarn. — 
The yarn must be boiled in water, until it sinks before the dyeing is com- 
menced; otherwise it will float on tlie surface of the dye, and will not 
take (he color. 

After the yarn is boiled, open out the skeins and wring them as dry aa 
possible; then sliake them up loosely, that they may hang open and loose 
in the dye, and run them on small sticks, (as you would candle-wick,) and 
dip them in the dye, leaving the ends of the sticks to rest on the ledge 
inside the vat. After the yarn has remained a proper time in the dye, take 
it up and wring it as dry as possible, shake up loose, and stir and mix tho 
dye well, and let stand covered closely an hour and a half or two houra 
to se'tie; then dip the yarn as before; continue the process of dipping, 
wringing, and airing the yarn, until the color suits, and you caunot fail to 
have a fine and j)ermaaent blue. 

This blue, if left light, may be changed, in the yellow dye, to a beautiful 
green. When the dye becomes weak, renew it with ludigo, copperas, and 
lime, in the same proportions that were used at first. 

©i'asag'ea ®r Copperas CoJosir, ©ii Cotton or Jjinen. 

Dissolve tv/o pounds copperas in hot water, have the liquor very strong, 
and let it stand til! nearly cold; then run the yarn into the copperas dye, 
one hour; then take up the goods and wring as dry as possible: shake up 
the yarn, to open out the skeins, and handle them through lime water; then 
let it drain and hang to air and sun, for fifieen or twenty minutes: continue 
to dip the yarn in the copperas liquor, as at first, and then in the lime wa- 
ter, atid air and sun it each dipping.until (he colour suits. If a very deep 
color be wanted, increase the strength of the copperas dye and lime water. 

A rni!ch fierter and deeper colour can be made by using lime water, 
than in the usual way with ley. 

The yarn ought be boiled, as directed for the blue dye. Without this, 
it will not take aay colour. 



• 46 

II3nck on CoUoib, or liinera: Five FouEids Yarn. 

Make a strong dye of black-oak bark, lo which add four pounds logwood, 
and boil well; then add five ounces blue vitriol, and dip and run the goods 
one hour,- take up the yarn and add two pounds copperas to the dye, dip 
and run the yarn, as before; then take up the yarn and add three pints of 
good ashes, or three ounces of pearlash to the dye; stir well, and return 
the goods to the dye, and let it stand till next day; then rinse and dry it. 

Ii0^woi»d Mine o'lA €&ttou or lii^en. 

Five pounds yarn: boil the yarn as directed for indigo blue; then dis- 
solve six ounces blue vitriol, in which run the yarn one hour; then lake up 
the goods and hang them out to air; add three pounds logwood lo the dye, 
and boil well; dip the yarn, and let it lie one hour; take up the yarn and 
air it as before; add three ounces of pearlash and half an ounce blue vitr- 
ei to the dye, and mix well; then return the yarn to the dye, and let it 
lie one hour; take it up and air it. If not dark enough, return it to the 
4jQ and let it remain till next day; tbcQ ricso and dry it. 



INDEX. 



Oye-keltle, size of - introduction 
do kind of mettle '• 
do how to set - " 
Reel, description of - " 
ido use of - - - " 
Yarn, prepared for dyeing " 
Barks, used for dyeing - " 
liadder and camwood, in dye- 
ing - - - - " 
Black will) oak bark, Receipt No. 1 

" pinoak " " 2 

" while walnut " 3 
Snuff Brown - 5 6 7 8 9 

London smoke - - - 10 

Olive Brown • - - 11 

Walnut - - - - 14 

" hulls saved for use - 15 

" «< used in dyeing - 16 

" " used in dyeing wool 17 

Drab dark • - - - 18 

Drab slate - - - - 19 

Drab dark - - 20 21 22 

Drab light - - 23 25 26 27 

Drabs, why thev fade - - 29 

How to remedy - - 30 31 33 
Iron, how to use instead 

of copperas - 33 34 35 37 

London brown - - - 38 

Copperas dissolved in vinegar 39 

London brown - 40 41 42 

Red with camwood - - 43 4.4 

Pink - ... 40 

Violet 47 

Red with madder - - 48 

Remarks on madder red - 49 

Snnff brown . - - 51 

Yellow - - - 52 53 

Remarks on the yellow dy« - 54 

Remarks on black oak b ark - 56 

do on walnut bark - 57 
Remark on the culture of madder 58 

Prussian blue or chymic - 59 

Betnarks on camo - - - GO 



Another method for blueing GB 
Prussian bluo - - - 63 
Green - - - 67 68 69 

Bottle green - - 70 72 75 
To dissolve verdigris - - 71 
Grass green - - - 73 
Blue with logwood - 76 77 78 
To granulate tin - - 79 

iMuiio-sulphate of tin, 

preparation or - - - 80 
Nitrate of tin, how to prepare 81 
Bright snuff brown - 82 83 

French brown - - - 84 
Bottle green ■ - 85 89 

Bright green withm. s. t. - 87 
Dark green - - - 88 

Bright green - - - 89 

Saxon green - - - 90 
Yellow - - - 91 94 95 
Preparation of black oak bark 93 
Preparations for the yellow dye 93 
Red with madder and 

nitrate of tin » - - CO 

page 

Washing wool - - - 34 

Rinsing box » - - 34 

" spout - - - 34 

Reasons - - - - 35 

Mixing colours - - - 33 

Colouring the wool - - 37 

do in web, disadvantages 38 

do in wool and 

web compared - - - 39 

Difference in value 25 per ct 39 

j Preparing wool for carding - 39 

Spinning . _ - . 40 

" unequal, cause of puckering 41 

••» forsatinetta - - 41 

'* linsey - ' - - 41 

*• blanketing - - 41 

Weaving - - - - 41 

" nnequal cause of puckering 41 

" liuDoya - - - 4^ 



48 



« satinetta - - - 42 


The vat - 


45 


Fulling - - - 42 43 


Yarn must be boiled 


. 45 


Finishing - - - - 43 


Green . - - . 


45 


Wasiiing yarn - - - 44 


Orange or copperas colour 


. 45 


Wool, dyeing of - - - 44 


Logwood blue - - . 


46 


lodigo blue on cotton or lincQ 44 


Black ... - 


. 46 



